Chainsaw possibly losing compression

[Northwoods]

My dad gave me his Husqvarna 350 chainsaw about 10 years ago. Not sure how old it was by then, but I know he can’t have put very many hours on it. I think my mom was just glad to not have him tempted to use it anymore when he gave it to me. Paid for it by doing a bunch of work on trees around their property a couple years later.

Anyway, no idea how many trees I’ve cut down, brushed out, and bucked for firewood with it since I got it, but for a guy in 5 acres it sure seems like a lot. Took it to the local shop today as it wasn’t making power last time I fired it up. Got a massive stack of logs to buck up, so really need it running well, and no time to mess with it. Guy held it by the starter cord and bounced it a bit. Said it might be getting close to the low end of acceptable compression.

Question is, if they say it would really need a ring job (or other similarly costly rebuilding work), at what point does it make more sense to replace it rather than fix it up? I quite like that saw, especially for limbing, or bucking smaller (<16” dia) logs. I like the overall size and weight as it’s powerful enough for quickly cutting through even large limbs but without fatiguing me too quickly. Currently it wears a 20” bar, but when it needs replacing (assuming the whole saw doesn’t too) I was intending to get a 16” or 18” bar so it would be even more maneuverable and will cut even faster. For bigger jobs I have a fairly new Stihl MS-461 (with 28” and 36” bars).

If I decide to replace, what is a good comparable replacement saw? For my area, Stihl is far better supported than Husqvarna. And I generally avoid the big-box store brands like Homelight and Echo. It’s really hard to find shops locally willing to work on them, and often I don’t have a ton of time to screw with them.

In addition to the above considerations I want to start my 14 year old boy on learning how to run a chainsaw. So something he can safely wield is important too. He’s very scrawny (as was I at that age) so a lighter weight saw will help a lot with not wearing him out too fast. It’s when you get tired that accidents often happen. Mind you, we’ll get all the safety gear for him too, like clogger pants or chaps, helmet with face shield and ear muffs, etc.

If replacement is called for I’ll probably keep the Husky and order the parts to rebuild it, and make that a job for the boy to do (with my help, to the extent I’m available). If he succeeds the saw is his to keep.

[Boomhauer]

Maybe do some more reliable testing that doesn’t involve such a hokey test?

The small engine shops around here their standard “diagnosis” is always “low compression”

[charby]

Buy a compression gauge

[Nick1911]

I am also suspicious of the low compression diagnosis.

Keeping in mind that you don't really want to dick with it yourself, consider getting a second opinion.

[Northwoods]

That was just the guy at the counter doing his 10 second eval about a low power complaint and getting an upper limit on the cost of repairs I’m ok with.  The mechanic will do a much more thorough check.  This shop has treated me very well for 10 years.

[Brad Johnson]

Presuming some experience with small engines, a pull test is an acceptable way to get a first impression of potential compression issues. If you've done enough of them you get a feel for when they're spinning over a little more freely than they should.

Brad

[230RN]

Move to a lower altitude.

sumpnz said,
"If replacement is called for I’ll probably keep the Husky and order the parts to rebuild it, and make that a job for the boy to do (with my help, to the extent I’m available). If he succeeds the saw is his to keep."

One of my fondest enduring memories of my father was when he guided me through disassembling and re assembling a belt-drven compressor, explaining things to me, pointing out which wrench to use, how the rings fit in, how to check bearing clearance, and how to use a ring compressor.  

Shinin' times indeed.

But it was a neighbor's painting compressor he was doing a favor for and of course I couldn't keep it.  Not that I had any use for it.

But I sure kept that knowledge and skill set and the warmth of those few hours through the rest of my life.

Make time for it, sumpnz.

Terry

[Kingcreek]

Not a big job to cylinder hone re-ring and replace piston if needed.
If shopping new I would look at the MS251.
I like a 20” bar on that size saw for the balance. I find it less fatiguing and easier to work than a 16” and possibly even safer.