Author Topic: Countertop painting?  (Read 5635 times)

mtnbkr

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Countertop painting?
« on: April 25, 2008, 05:56:34 AM »
A while back, my wife caught a bit on Rachel Ray's (tv chef) show about refinishing countertops.  The real meat of the info was in a $40 DVD, but it got me looking online for more information. 

I found: http://www.wikihow.com/Paint-Formica-Countertops and http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=725&SBL=5 (look for the countertop coatings section).

We've been talking about replacing our countertop because it's a hideous hotel/apt beige color.  However, because it has a 2" extention on one end (no, we can't remove that section), it's going to cost us about $1500 for what isn't a very large countertop (7' long, give or take a foot, plus a 1' wide section on the other side of the stove).  If that's what we have to pay, fine, but I want to try this to see if it'll give us another couple years use.

Has anyone done something like this or seen the results?  Does it hold up at all?

Chris

cassandra and sara's daddy

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2008, 05:59:43 AM »
never done it let us know how it comes out if you find out more
i have done a lotta granite tile right over the existing tops and some ceramic and porcelain too. i started using an epoxy grout  pricey but strong nonporeous and doesn't stain like old grout
It is much more powerful to seek Truth for one's self.  Seeing and hearing that others seem to have found it can be a motivation.  With me, I was drawn because of much error and bad judgment on my part. Confronting one's own errors and bad judgment is a very life altering situation.  Confronting the errors and bad judgment of others is usually hypocrisy.


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charby

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2008, 06:12:43 AM »
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mfree

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2008, 06:20:35 AM »
Gotta bake duracoat, and it'll stink.

Use a good epoxy surface paint.

charby

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2008, 06:23:34 AM »
I thought duracoat was non bake if you let wait three weeks
Iowa- 88% more livable that the rest of the US

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mtnbkr

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2008, 06:27:28 AM »
never done it let us know how it comes out if you find out more
i have done a lotta granite tile right over the existing tops and some ceramic and porcelain too. i started using an epoxy grout  pricey but strong nonporeous and doesn't stain like old grout

I looked into tile, but I got the impression I was going to have to completely rebuild the countertop.  Is it as simple as tiling over the existing countertop?  I've never done tile before, but I'm not afraid to learn. 

Chris

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2008, 06:34:42 AM »
if the wood/particle board are sound you cut the back splash off rough up thr surface or you can use a backer board on top and lay the tile. you can use my diamond saw if you want. i suggest large tiles on top  fewer grout lines. then small tiles same color run right up wall to bottom of cabinets. you can dress it up with decorative accent tiles and borders. or even do inlay.  think of it as a jig saw where all the pieces are uniform and you can use scissors. tile companies charge 1500 to 2000 mfor doing a backsplach alone you can do it for 200 in materials and i charge 500 plus for labor  i cried when i saw the tile companies estimates
It is much more powerful to seek Truth for one's self.  Seeing and hearing that others seem to have found it can be a motivation.  With me, I was drawn because of much error and bad judgment on my part. Confronting one's own errors and bad judgment is a very life altering situation.  Confronting the errors and bad judgment of others is usually hypocrisy.


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roo_ster

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2008, 08:27:58 AM »
never done it let us know how it comes out if you find out more
i have done a lotta granite tile right over the existing tops and some ceramic and porcelain too. i started using an epoxy grout  pricey but strong nonporeous and doesn't stain like old grout

I looked into tile, but I got the impression I was going to have to completely rebuild the countertop.  Is it as simple as tiling over the existing countertop?  I've never done tile before, but I'm not afraid to learn. 

Chris

My folks have tiled over many a formica countertop.  It can be done by non-pros.

What I did was take a hammer to the old particle board/formica countertop and replaced it with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood.  My folks will do it that way form now on, because the cost/time required for demo & plywood installation is made up for in ease of tile installation.  Also, it makes one bodaciously strong & steady surface.

My folks were laying & scoring/cutting tile while I did all the complex cuts requiring a tile saw.  We tore through that task like a hot knife through butter.


Regards,

roo_ster

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cassandra and sara's daddy

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2008, 08:34:46 AM »
yup  50 square foot for counter and backsplash don't take long
It is much more powerful to seek Truth for one's self.  Seeing and hearing that others seem to have found it can be a motivation.  With me, I was drawn because of much error and bad judgment on my part. Confronting one's own errors and bad judgment is a very life altering situation.  Confronting the errors and bad judgment of others is usually hypocrisy.


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mtnbkr

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2008, 08:42:01 AM »
If there's nothing wrong with the existing countertop, why would you not want to lay tile directly onto it?

Chris

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2008, 08:49:57 AM »
Paint, even "heavy duty" or "industrial" stuff, will quickly scuff and dull.  The epoxy-based reglazing finishes will last pretty much forever.  Done properly it can be very attractive, not to mention much less costly than other options.  Done poorly it looks like someone puked on your counter.

Brad
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K Frame

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #11 on: April 25, 2008, 08:53:08 AM »
If there's nothing wrong with the existing countertop, why would you not want to lay tile directly onto it?

Chris

The extra weight of the tile could cause problems, especially with an OSB substrate.
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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2008, 08:55:05 AM »
the thiner cementboard backer board gives the thinset a better surface to bond with though i have used a belt sander and just scuffed the formica, other consideration is that if you screw the backerboard to existing top you know its not gonna come loose  bad job of gluing formica can fail. some pissants dont'y contact cement whole surface  just edges they use regular glue in center  makes it easier  not better. also i ose fiberglass mesh tape over the edges to make sure you get good bond on most abused surface  though my first choice it to wood trim edge to match cabinets. you can get small tile amounts dirt cheap  can get you tumbled marble under 5  a square foot  maybe under 4  in 4 inch squares
It is much more powerful to seek Truth for one's self.  Seeing and hearing that others seem to have found it can be a motivation.  With me, I was drawn because of much error and bad judgment on my part. Confronting one's own errors and bad judgment is a very life altering situation.  Confronting the errors and bad judgment of others is usually hypocrisy.


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mtnbkr

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #13 on: April 25, 2008, 09:12:31 AM »
Regarding tile over laminate, found this: http://www.ronhazelton.com/howto/tilingovervinyl.htm

I'm seriously interested in the tile route now.  We're going to repaint the entire kitchen and have been trying to find a good way to handle the wall behind the counter.  Running the backsplash up the wall is just the ticket.

Chris

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #14 on: April 25, 2008, 09:18:20 AM »
it is  i'm tiling a bathroom next week if you wanna watch and that offer to use one of the saws is open i'm off exit 133 on 95 about 7 miles
It is much more powerful to seek Truth for one's self.  Seeing and hearing that others seem to have found it can be a motivation.  With me, I was drawn because of much error and bad judgment on my part. Confronting one's own errors and bad judgment is a very life altering situation.  Confronting the errors and bad judgment of others is usually hypocrisy.


by someone older and wiser than I

Brad Johnson

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #15 on: April 25, 2008, 09:25:26 AM »
Regarding tile over laminate, found this: http://www.ronhazelton.com/howto/tilingovervinyl.htm

I'm seriously interested in the tile route now.  We're going to repaint the entire kitchen and have been trying to find a good way to handle the wall behind the counter.  Running the backsplash up the wall is just the ticket.

Chris

How about the reproduction metal panels (old-style ceiling panels)?  Faux finished they look pretty darn good and installtion would be a snap.

Brad
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InfidelSerf

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Re: Countertop painting?
« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2008, 07:01:42 PM »
ugh I've never understood the desire for tile on a kitchen countertop surface.. sure it can look nice for the first 6 months or so.. but the grout lines will be bacteria traps.
If your old laminate counter tops are the "newer" desired 90deg flat front ones, and you don't have any large chunks i.e. it looks bad but still pretty smooth.
I'd just resurface it with a newer more appealing laminate.  Wilsonart makes a nice line of slate looking laminates, as do Formica. 
You can buy a good dewalt laminate router for $99 a roller for $25 several disposable brushes for $5 and a gallon of contact adhesive for about $25ea one should do it buy two and return the second if you don't need to crack it open. (best to have it on hand in case the job calls for more) About $25 for a hand cutter (or you can buy an air nibbler for $30 if you have a bubble, or just use the router and spend the extra time to clamp up jigs to cut your laminate..the hand shears are the simplest), $20 for a palm sander, $10 for a file, $8 for a scratch and snap edge tool.
The laminate itself in the newer designs you will be looking at around $60-120 per 5x8 or 5x10 sheet depending on the brand and design. They come in larger or smaller sizes.  Just rough up the old counter top surfaces, cut your sheets to size leaving about 1-2" overhang rip 2" strips for your edges and your ready to go.
glue both the laminate and the roughed up surface.. let dry then stick and roll out with the roller.  edge strips go on first.  Planning out which ones to go on first depends on which corners are most visible.  i.e. most kitchen counter top end edges are done first.. routed sanded smooth and then the front edge is stuck.. routed then filed/sanded smooth on the top (a belt sander with 80grit is much quicker but it can be done with the palm sander)  then you stick your tops and router the edges and sink hole. (oh yeah you need to remove the sink to do this)  If you have a counter top too long for the standard sheet sizes.. then plan a seem at the center of your sink.
*edited to add* the scratch and snap tool is for all the wall edge and hard to reach corners where the router won't reach.

I had never done laminate before and picked it up on one job and made a living installing new tops for several years. 

I would just consider the resurface option rather than more complicated and potentially less desirable outcome like tile. JMHO

edit * oh yeah and if it's the prefab rolled over edge style.. then I'd consider replacing the top by pulling the old one and building a simple mdf or particle board top with pine or oak 1x2 edges.. then sand smooth with a belt sander and do the steps above.  If you use oak edges you can opt to use a wood router to cut a profile after just applying a top laminate sheet and then stain the edge. That looks good too.  I have resurfaced the rolled edge style counter tops but its a gib PITA and requires extra hands and lots of heat guns.    Oh and you'll want a few clamps for the previous mentioned steps.  Mainly for keeping corner edges tight until they dry.
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