Author Topic: Getting my first bike  (Read 5455 times)

Smith

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Getting my first bike
« on: September 13, 2005, 03:12:36 PM »
I finally found a bike at a time I could afford it.  I found a 2001 Ninja 500 with 551 miles on it for $3200.  It really looks showroom perfect.  I think I got a pretty good deal, what do you guys think?

I'm just going to putt around my neighborhood for a while on it...I'm sure I'm not ready to trek out into most roads yet.  I'm ordering a helmet, a jacket, and maybe pants today.  I sure hope I remember what I learned at the MSF class in May!

cfabe

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« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2005, 03:29:53 PM »
Good on ya for taking the msf. Spend the money on decent gear, and get gloves too.

A ninja 500 is a good learners bike. I just picked up a ninja 250. Much better beginners bike than the CB650 I had for a few months a couple years ago.  Mine is a 1998 that I picked up for $1650. It had been down before, and was a little banged up cosemtically. Yours is probably a good deal too, but you might be upset when you lay it down the first time and bang it up.

Good luck, and stay safe out there!

CatsDieNow

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« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2005, 10:32:20 AM »
When zipping around the neighborhood, just remember that roadkill and trash are slippery, slow down for approaching dogs then gas it when they get close, and most importantly - people in cars pay even less attention in their own neighborhood than on the highway.

Best bet is to find a nearby empty parking lot and practice those MSF drills until 45MPH doesn't feel so scary.

Definitely order gloves too.  Boots if you have the cash.

http://www.newenough.com/ is a great place for cheap, quality street gear.  Fantastic customer service.

Strings

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« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2005, 12:31:28 PM »
also remember, you're safer on the freeway than you are on the city streets (or country roads). Yes, you're goin' faster, but at least all the idiots are pointing in the same direction (generally)...

Smith

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« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2005, 03:29:32 PM »
Wow, what gives?  I thought there were a lot of cycle folk here.

Guest

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« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2005, 11:05:45 PM »
Quote from: Smith
Wow, what gives?  I thought there were a lot of cycle folk here.
The only question you asked is what we think of the EX500 and cfabe pretty much summed it up. Its an excellent bike by any measure, and definatly a good bike to start with.

The only other thing to add is to stay safe and take it easy, i dont realy think you need anyone to tell you that though Tongue

I would second the suggestion to get some good gloves, you will need them in generally to keep your hands from freezing up on you, and if you get in a wreck you will be glad to have them as protective gear, you dont want to scrape all the meat off your hands. Also, dont ride it untill you get your helmet and the rest of your gear. It doesnt matter how slow you are moving, just knocking your head on a drop is enough to turn you into a slobbering vegitable.

Smith

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« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2005, 01:37:39 AM »
I already have a helmet on the way (I tried them on first and then ordered one from New Enough) as well as a jacket (First Gear).  I already had gloves and I will wear my hiking boots for the time being.  Can't wait to get started!  We took her home last night (my cousin, an MSF instructor, rode her home with me following) and he said it rode GREAT.

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« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2005, 03:29:26 AM »
Awesome! I went with a brand new Ninja 250R which still cost me less than your 500. Everyone wasn't lying, it is a perfect bike to learn on. At this point, I have no problem dragging the toe of my boot through corners...the 500 and 250 are great because you learn how to ride without fearing the bike.

CatsDieNow

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« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2005, 03:57:45 AM »
Dan, put your foot back on the peg where it belongs.  Tongue   (Those poser frat boys may have cooler bikes than you, but see who gets to the bottom of the levee cloverleaf first.  I'll bet you can pass them in the twisties.)

I went with the 500 because everything in DFW is connected by interstate highways and I didn't want to have to wind the RPM's up so high to do 75mph.

bountyhunter

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« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2005, 02:11:28 PM »
Quote from: Smith
I finally found a bike at a time I could afford it.  I found a 2001 Ninja 500 with 551 miles on it for $3200.  It really looks showroom perfect.  I think I got a pretty good deal, what do you guys think?

I'm just going to putt around my neighborhood for a while on it...I'm sure I'm not ready to trek out into most roads yet.  I'm ordering a helmet, a jacket, and maybe pants today.  I sure hope I remember what I learned at the MSF class in May!
Sounds like a great deal.

BTW, the time period where you will be most likely to kill yourself is about 3 months to one year after you get riding.  That is the zone where people start to think they know what they are doing.....and haven't gotten smart enough to be sufficiently afraid.

Good Luck (been riding 40 years, last 25 on a KZ-750)

Guide for beginning riders:

1) Paranoia is your friend

2) Other drivers are far stupider than you could ever imagine.

3) Anything bad that CAN happen, WILL happen.

4) The ground is harder than you will believe.

5) That skin takes less than 1 second to transfer to the pavement and about 8 weeks to regrow.

6) The best possible scenario always involves maximum distance between you and everybody else.

7) The advantages of that "handicapped" parking placard do NOT outweigh the disadvantages that come with it.

Cool Nothing is worth dying for.

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« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2005, 02:53:37 PM »
Quote from: CatsDieNow
Dan, put your foot back on the peg where it belongs.  Tongue   (Those poser frat boys may have cooler bikes than you, but see who gets to the bottom of the levee cloverleaf first.  I'll bet you can pass them in the twisties.)

I went with the 500 because everything in DFW is connected by interstate highways and I didn't want to have to wind the RPM's up so high to do 75mph.
haha! It is on the peg! And yeah the poser frat guys crack me up. I saw one on a GSX-R 600 with underfairing LEDs go around that curve on State Street (the weird one when you're headed east near the grad house)...I looked back in my mirror and didn't see him anymore so I slowed down and waited for him to pass. Well he had chicken strips that were at least 2.5" on each side lol! The 500 you have is a sweet bike! I'm getting a 636 for next year's riding season...I can't wait!

atek3

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« Reply #11 on: September 18, 2005, 01:57:31 PM »
Quote from: Daniel Flory
Quote from: CatsDieNow
Dan, put your foot back on the peg where it belongs.  Tongue   (Those poser frat boys may have cooler bikes than you, but see who gets to the bottom of the levee cloverleaf first.  I'll bet you can pass them in the twisties.)

I went with the 500 because everything in DFW is connected by interstate highways and I didn't want to have to wind the RPM's up so high to do 75mph.
haha! It is on the peg! And yeah the poser frat guys crack me up. I saw one on a GSX-R 600 with underfairing LEDs go around that curve on State Street (the weird one when you're headed east near the grad house)...I looked back in my mirror and didn't see him anymore so I slowed down and waited for him to pass. Well he had chicken strips that were at least 2.5" on each side lol! The 500 you have is a sweet bike! I'm getting a 636 for next year's riding season...I can't wait!
Before you jump on the 636 bandwagon, consider the 06 Triumph Daytona 675.  Things a screamer!  123 hp at the crank, 365 lbs dry, 3-cylinders, so you actually have reasonable grunt down low.

atek3

atek3

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« Reply #12 on: September 18, 2005, 02:00:13 PM »
>haha! It is on the peg!

I was dragging toe and peg too until I learned to change my body position.  By shifting your bum about half way off the seat and moving your upper body so your spine is still parallel to the bike, you should start to drag knee before toe.  It took a while to get used to, but hanging off lets you keep the bike more vertical while still carrying the same corner speed.  

atek3

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« Reply #13 on: September 18, 2005, 03:05:28 PM »
atek,

I'll have to try that but I don't have any knee pucks...and I'll probably buy a video explaining how to do it before I try. Any suggestions? And Triumphs do indeed look cool but I want to go Japanese for now. I could see a Speed Triple in my distant future though...

atek3

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« Reply #14 on: September 18, 2005, 03:16:11 PM »
Seriously though, I don't try to drag knee or toe on public roads anymore.  Too many variables out of my control.  I've had too many friends who knew what they were doing, eat it anyway because the margin of error was so slim*.  My advice is cliche'd, 'take it to the track', certainly to learn techniques like kneedragging.  After you know what kind of speed you can safely carry under perfect conditions (warm tires, clean pavement, no oncoming traffic), you can ride on the street at a fun pace, but have a larger margin for error than before.

just my 2 cents.

atek3


*by this I mean, under strong cornering forces, the smallest amount of gravel, oil, tar snake, squirrel guts, etc. can cause you to instantly lose traction and go down.  Hopefully wearing protecting gear, you come out okay, but it's far better to keep the rubber side down in the first place Smiley

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« Reply #15 on: September 18, 2005, 03:23:50 PM »
Thanks for the advice! I have heard that kneedragging has no place on the street...but I never heard that toedragging was verboten as well Wink How is the SV treating you by the way? I'm also considering getting an SV-650S instead of the 636...

saxman357

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« Reply #16 on: September 18, 2005, 03:47:59 PM »
Quote from: atek3
*by this I mean, under strong cornering forces, the smallest amount of gravel, oil, tar snake, squirrel guts, etc. can cause you to instantly lose traction and go down.  Hopefully wearing protecting gear, you come out okay, but it's far better to keep the rubber side down in the first place Smiley
Or start to go down and then high-side flip the bike in the other direction when the rear tire slides out and catches again.  Just like I did a few months ago.  Got a busted helmet, injured back, bruised ribs and a totalled bike out of it.  Cold tires and hard cornering don't mix - adding gravel only makes it worse.

BTW, if you're dragging your boots in the corners make sure you have the balls of your feet on the pegs, not your arches.  That should give you the extra bit of ground clearance to make the peg feelers touch down first.  Obviously you don't want to push it any further past that point.

As for hanging *slightly* off the bike, there's nothing squidly about it - by shifting your weight thus, you help conserve that all-important traction.  If you're touching your knee down on the street though, you're taking it a bit too far IMO.

atek3

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« Reply #17 on: September 18, 2005, 05:19:40 PM »
>How is the SV treating you by the way? I'm also considering getting an SV-650S instead of the 636...

I love it, thought it depends on what you want out of a bike.  If you want a pure track bike, get the 636.  If you want a street bike that does well on the track, get an SV.  The SV-650S has a lot of torque down low compared to an inline 4, but doesn't have the screaming top end power of an i4 either.  The SV will be more forgiving on the track and the street.  When you feel you've outgrown the abilities of the stock SV (which is very tough anyway), you can always sell the front end and rear shock and put on a revalved GSXR front end and penske, fox, or hagon rear shock.  If money is a consideration, you can find screaming deals on SV's people have already set up for the track, with the suspension mod's done for you.  

atek3

atek3

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« Reply #18 on: September 18, 2005, 05:23:48 PM »
Quote from: saxman357
Or start to go down and then high-side flip the bike in the other direction when the rear tire slides out and catches again.  Just like I did a few months ago.  Got a busted helmet, injured back, bruised ribs and a totalled bike out of it.  Cold tires and hard cornering don't mix - adding gravel only makes it worse.
I lost the front end and lowsided at turn 5 at thunderhill.  I walked away with a sprained finger.  My bike though, slid on the ground and then flipped, breaking bits on both sides Sad  350 in parts (not including cowling, which is still a bit banged up)

Cheap lesson on when it's time to pack it up at the track.  (if you're tired and exhausted, hit the pits, a trashed bike isn't worth another lap or two, NB: this only applies to track days)

atek3

CatsDieNow

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« Reply #19 on: September 19, 2005, 04:31:36 AM »
Atek3's right about leaning over in urban areas.  Be sure you can see all the way through the turn and can anticipate problems and debris.  No toescrapping in blind corners.

Here in the metroplex, it is a road hazard bonanza everywhere you look.  Every truck leaks sludge and oil.  Raised road tape, crowned roads, huge metal bumps to divide lanes, metal construction plates (these suck when wet)...and my personal favorite:  I can't be bothered to tie down my load in the truck bed.

Do NOT, under any circumstances, follow a truck where there is any potential for the load to come loose, including gravel trucks.  I spent a scary 5 seconds yesterday evening swerving and dodging suitcases, clothes and other crap that fell out of a pickup about 4 cars in front of me.  I've also seen (via the bernoulli principle) matresses and drywall fly out, but I was not directly behind those fools.

What was I saying?  Oh, yes...Daniel, for serious kneedragging, get thee to a track day where the environmental factor is controlled and the paramedics are standing by.  

http://www.motorcycleridesinamerica.com/indiana_track_day_schedule.htm

And I want one of these, the 650R at the bottom of the page, which will be a Kawa competetor for the SV:

http://www.kawasaki.ca/2006_model_update_ninja.html     Note the ZX-14 as well.

atek3

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« Reply #20 on: September 19, 2005, 05:42:26 AM »
>And I want one of these, the 650R at the bottom of the page, which will be a Kawa competetor for the SV:

big bore parallel twin, how wierd.  

atek3

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« Reply #21 on: September 19, 2005, 09:29:41 AM »
CDN- That's some hairy stuff! I've had this weird fear of that happening...I guess my fears are not unfounded! Thanks for more advice.

CatsDieNow

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« Reply #22 on: September 19, 2005, 10:02:46 AM »
I just want you, me and all of us riders to keep the shiny side up.   Track days are the perfect venue for kneedragging with less risk.  I plan to ride in one early next season - I've watched one and they look like a blast.

Oh, and one more for the rant list - truck retread.  Those rubber gators will really bite you, took a $1200 bite out of my Camaro a couple years ago.

Basically, just avoid trucks and semis.  The wind shear as you pass them can get you too.

Guest

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« Reply #23 on: September 21, 2005, 10:15:30 PM »
Heh.  I was the one that steered Atek3 towards the SV.  Glad to see that's working out.

OK.  Going as far back as 1988 or so, there's been two bikes that are stable, "fast enough" to at least start with, don't have any bad handling habits and go like gangbusters.  The Suzuki GS500 parallel twin and the Kawi EX500.

Kawi updated the EX500 slightly over the years - later models with the 17" front rim are more desirable, and that's what you're looking at.

The EX has one flaw: the engine is a nice high-tech four-valve-per-cylinder mill, watercooled, basically the old Ninja 1000 motor "sawn in half" (and even shares some valvetrain/piston/rod parts I think?) BUT they need a valve adjustment every 5,000 - 6,000 miles if I recall right.  And unfortunately it's a nasty shim-and-bucket setup that's difficult to do yourself.  It'll probably run a couple hundred each time.

The GS500 had a two-valve-per-cyliner setup with screw-adjust valves.  They needed looking at every 3,000 or so miles but were an easy home job.

Suzuki basically never changed the GS500 from '88 to 2004.  I kid you not, other than paint and minor cosmetic stuff, same bike.  If you're on a budget these are a GREAT way to start.

The SV650 is Suzuki's more modern replacement for the old GS in the same role - sporty but with smooth stable handling and power that hits in a controllable fashion.

See...the more cylinders you have, the more power you'll get for the same displacement.  A one-cylinder 600 will have less than a third the power of a four-cylinder 600.  The problem with most of the four-bangers is that the power hits "only at the top end" and comes on all of a sudden...you'll gas it in mid corner, it'll come on calm enough up through about 8,000rpm at which point all hell breaks loose, horsepower doubles, it spits you into the next county unless you're ready for it.

A twin is a nice split between the two...some decent but not explosive top end.

Upshot: the GS500 is one of the cheapest bikes to keep rolling if you do your own modest wrenching.  The EX500 is more complex for the home wrench and you'll need help with those valves probably...but other than that they're damned fine.

I don't remember what the valve adjust system for the SV650 is...Atek3, are they screw-adjust, shims or hydraulic self-adjusting?

My current ride: '97 Buell S3 Thunderbolt, flattracker bars off a dirtbike, PM aluminum rims, 1250-kit Axtell nickle-silicon ceramic lined barrels, matching 10.5:1 forged race pistons with dome pattern based on the Thunderstorm heads, 2004-model heads with oversize valves and cut for Thunderstorm pistons, Mikuni HS42 carb and the last piece is waiting in storage for install next week...a KT Engineering out-of-production race pipe, the final bit I need to get up over 100hp at the crank out of this hopped-up Harley Sportster mill Smiley.

atek3

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« Reply #24 on: September 22, 2005, 05:54:40 PM »
>I don't remember what the valve adjust system for the SV650 is...Atek3, are they screw-adjust, shims or hydraulic self-adjusting?

shim under bucket.  I could do it myself, but I'm too lazy/busy...

GS500 is a great beginner bike, I had one, rode it for 10 thousand miles.

don't under estimate dual sports as  first bike.  Kinda top heavy, but the good news, they were practically made to be dropped.

atek3