Author Topic: Should I buy a Walther P1?  (Read 16777 times)

zxcvbob

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Should I buy a Walther P1?
« on: August 15, 2011, 11:31:07 AM »
SOG has them for $310 (with one magazine.)  CDNN has mags on sale for $10, along with some other odds and ends that I want.  How often do the stars line up like that?

The only thing is, I don't know much about them.  I have read that they don't like hot loads or heavy bullets.  Anybody here have a P38 or a P1?  Are they decent shooters?
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RoadKingLarry

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2011, 12:28:53 PM »
Yes, and get at least two spare mags and a holster while you're at it.
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Devonai

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2011, 01:35:49 PM »
That is very tempting indeed.  I don't know about reliability with different loads or bullet configurations, but I'd be happy with just standard pressure FMJ.  If it feeds JHP, all the better.  If I got that, then I could justify one of those nifty German Flecktarn holsters to go with it.

What drives me crazy is that two gun stores down my way have these labeled as P38s.  I attempted to bring this to the attention of one of the store employees and got a string of BS instead.  I'm pretty sure after reading Oleg's info on these that they're not the same thing.  Why is the whole post-war concept so hard to understand?
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HankB

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2011, 01:43:45 PM »
Doesn't the post-war P1 have an aluminum alloy frame, as opposed to the wartime P-38's steel frame?
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AJ Dual

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2011, 03:48:40 PM »
Doesn't the post-war P1 have an aluminum alloy frame, as opposed to the wartime P-38's steel frame?

Yes, although I've heard of no significant complaints borne of that.

In theory, the P1's aluminum frame means it's less tolerant of a hard life of shooting +p ammo. OTOH, they were made in peacetime with all due care. The late-war P38's could be dicey too, and there's some anecdotal reports of cracked frames in the steel P38's as well.

Honestly, other than the difference in collector's value, and the chance of getting a really rough late-war P38 I think it's a wash. European loads trend a bit hotter than SAMMI spec stuff, so if it's going to mainly digest 115gr WWB and similar bulk FMJ loadings, I wouldn't worry at all.

As a shooter, I'd rather have the P1.
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P5 Guy

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2011, 04:59:53 PM »
No, 70 plus year old design. The P1 has an alloy frame, make sure you get on with the re-enforcing pin.
the ones I have shot have heavy DA triggers and the SA isn't much better.

zxcvbob

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2011, 02:04:58 PM »
The 70-year-old design doesn't bother me.  That's part of its charm.  HOWEVER, I just got an email from SOG, and none of their P1's have the hex pin.  (I ordered one with the $10 "handpick" option and I asked for a later-model one with the pin)  Should that be a deal breaker?

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P5 Guy

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2011, 04:57:35 PM »
I wouldn't buy an alloy frame without the re-enforcing pin. Under $350 isn't a bad price.
Look to Wolfe Spring for a new set of recoil springs if you do buy.
I have an AC42 brought back from Italy by my Dad. It is a fun shooter if you have a very strong index finger.
The modernized version P1, and P5 are the same mechanically, except for the alloy frame.

zxcvbob

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #8 on: August 22, 2011, 05:18:22 PM »
I wondered if maybe the problem was (no pin + worn out springs), which could be solved by a Wolff spring kit.  Or (no pin + worn springs + hot ammo)...

I'm impressed that SOG for gave me the option to cancel the order rather than just saying "no steel-pin P1's were available, but this one looks nice" and shipping one without a pin.  I think I may cancel it and see if I can find a pinned one on Gunbroker or maybe locally first.  If not, I can reorder later.  (unless they run out, but it's not like I *need* another handgun)

Thanks.
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MechAg94

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #9 on: August 22, 2011, 05:50:37 PM »
I've seen them for sale for a while.  My Sig P6 has the single stack 9mm covered.  I'd rather get some of the CZ pistols on sale right now. 
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seeker_two

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #10 on: August 22, 2011, 06:39:07 PM »
I'd skip the P1 and go for the Kareen HP's....

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/SearchResults.aspx

http://www.southernohiogun.com/

Much more available for that platform....but, if you need a single-stack....

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/SearchResults.aspx
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Mabs2

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2011, 07:08:12 PM »
Friend of mine used to have a knock off (Forget from where) that had a messed up sear.
Basically, you locked the slide back, inserted mag, pointed it where you wanted the rounds to go, let go of slide and it full auto dumped the mag.
Fun times.
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Oleg Volk

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2011, 02:15:11 AM »
A review of P1 I wrote in 2002: http://olegvolk.net/text/WaltherP1review2002.txt

HankB

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #13 on: August 24, 2011, 08:56:37 AM »
Cabela's is currently advertisng "P1/P38" pistols for $359 with two magazines and a holster . . . sale starts 8/27/11.
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zxcvbob

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #14 on: August 24, 2011, 09:55:19 AM »
Cabela's is currently advertisng "P1/P38" pistols for $359 with two magazines and a holster . . . sale starts 8/27/11.

Thanks, I will check it out!  and I have lots of Cabela's Bucks credit card points I can use up.  (but I better call the local store first; I got burned last time they had Rough Rider .22 revolvers on sale, only to find out they don't sell those in MN but they forgot to mention that in the ad.)
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zxcvbob

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #15 on: August 29, 2011, 10:23:11 PM »
I decided to order the P1 from SOG; it was a little cheaper than Cabelas even with the shipping, and I didn't feel like driving 40 miles each way to Cabelas on a Saturday morning just to maybe find that they didnt have any. 

The gun just got here.  It's a nice one, and it has the steel pin in the frame.  The trigger is not horrible; I think it will get better when I oil everything.  (The gun looks and feels like it was degreased)
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seeker_two

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #16 on: August 29, 2011, 10:28:59 PM »
Pics & shooting review, plz?....  =D
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Devonai

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #17 on: August 30, 2011, 01:16:13 AM »
Yes, please.  Sounds yummy.
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HankB

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #18 on: August 30, 2011, 08:51:10 AM »
I happened to be at Cabela's in Buda, TX this past weekend; actually I wanted to see if they had one of the new S&W 1911SC E-series pistols with the bobtail. (They didn't.)

I saw they had one of the advertised P1 pistols, well worn, no hex bolt. Passed on that.
Trump won in 2016. Democrats haven't been so offended since Republicans came along and freed their slaves.
Sometimes I wonder if the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it. - Mark Twain
Government is a broker in pillage, and every election is a sort of advance auction in stolen goods. - H.L. Mencken
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it. - Mark Twain

zxcvbob

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Re: Should I buy a Walther P1?
« Reply #19 on: September 04, 2011, 03:28:43 PM »
Pics & shooting review, plz?....  =D

I'll try to get some pics later today.  I took the gun to the range on the way home from church.  The double-action trigger is worse than I thought, but one could get used to it.  SA is much better (of course.)  I didn't have any paper targets with me so I was just shooting at the metal plate targets -- and missing every time until I figured out the gun was shooting low.  If I aimed at the top edge of the targets I could hit them.  That was with S&B 115 grain FMJ ammo.  Then I switched to some 125 grain LRN "remanufactured" ammo (commercial reloads.)  Those shot higher and I could hit the targets every time aiming for the centers.

No malfs at all, but I only fired about 50 rounds.  I didn't have any JHP ammo to try, but I've read that P1's and P38's do not like hollow points.  The recoil is very easy to manage.  The empty brass was ejected all over the place, especially with the heavier bullets even though those felt milder.  Several pieces hit my safety glasses.

I need to order a few extra magazines from CDNN.
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