Author Topic: I think my motorcycle is worse than I thought... (Read 8598 times)

White Horseradish · « **on:** May 20, 2012, 10:43:56 PM »

Can I have a bit of a logic check? If I can roll it and I am not pulling in the clutch in, then it's in neutral, right? If it's in neutral, I should be able to kick it over, right?

I stomped on the kickstarter, and it won't budge. I haven't tried electric start because I don't have a battery in it yet. Is this serious trouble, or could this be something stupid simple?

Monkeyleg · « **Reply #1 on:** May 20, 2012, 10:47:19 PM »

Could it be your drive chain or belt is broken?

Jim147 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 20, 2012, 11:07:45 PM »

Pull the plug and try to kick it with the ignition off! To make sure it hasn't filled with fuel and hydrolocked.

jim

Antibubba · « **Reply #3 on:** May 20, 2012, 11:21:57 PM »

The first rule of restoring an old bike is: The motorcycle is worse than you thought.

White Horseradish · « **Reply #4 on:** May 20, 2012, 11:23:24 PM »

Quote from: Jim147 on May 20, 2012, 11:07:45 PM

Pull the plug and try to kick it with the ignition off! To make sure it hasn't filled with fuel and hydrolocked.

jim

Tried that. It still won't budge. I have a bad feeling about this.

Jim147 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 20, 2012, 11:43:29 PM »

Do you do your clutch work? Maybe something in a bind?

If you are just starting on this project I would split the top and bottom ends to see where the problem is.

jim

White Horseradish · « **Reply #6 on:** May 20, 2012, 11:44:54 PM »

Quote from: Jim147 on May 20, 2012, 11:43:29 PM

Do you do your clutch work? Maybe something in a bind?

Dunno. But I have a fresh clutch in a pail of oil.

Quote from: Jim147 on May 20, 2012, 11:43:29 PM

If you are just starting on this project I would split the top and bottom ends to see where the problem is.

jim

I might have to try that.

RoadKingLarry · « **Reply #7 on:** May 20, 2012, 11:46:43 PM »

Sounds like something is stuck.

With the plugs out put it in gear and try to roll the bike.
If the pistons are siezed it could get real ugly and expensive to fix.
Time for a cost analysis. I'd gues that a top end rebuild will cost substantially more than the value of the bike even if you are able to do all the work yourself and don't have to buy any special tools if you can even get parts.
Those little Hondas were nifty little machines but they weren't designed with ease of rebuild as a consideration.
Good luck.

BobR · « **Reply #8 on:** May 21, 2012, 02:59:06 AM »

Quote

If I can roll it and I am not pulling in the clutch in, then it's in neutral, right?

Could it be between gears? I don't know if that would cause your problem or not.

bob

dogmush · « **Reply #9 on:** May 21, 2012, 05:42:07 AM »

This is a restoration that hasn't run in a while right? 10 to 1 the rings are rusted to the cylinder walls.

Pull all the plugs, and put a bunch (like 1/4 cup per cyl) of good penetrating oil in the top end of the cylinders. Marvel Mystery Oil or PB Blaster works well here. WD-40 isn't going to gut it.

Let it sit at least overnight, 24 hrs is better. Then try to turn the engine over. If it hasn't freed up by then you're going to have to crack the cases. Assuming it worked make sure you drain the oil and put fresh in, as well as get all the liquid out of the cylinders before you try to run it.

griz · « **Reply #10 on:** May 21, 2012, 07:46:49 AM »

Exactly what Dogmush said. I will add that turning it over with a wrench on the end of the crankshaft gives you more leverage than the kickstarter.

geronimotwo · « **Reply #11 on:** May 21, 2012, 08:46:25 AM »

Quote from: dogmush on May 21, 2012, 05:42:07 AM

This is a restoration that hasn't run in a while right? 10 to 1 the rings are rusted to the cylinder walls.

Pull all the plugs, and put a bunch (like 1/4 cup per cyl) of good penetrating oil in the top end of the cylinders. Marvel Mystery Oil or PB Blaster works well here. WD-40 isn't going to gut it.

Let it sit at least overnight, 24 hrs is better. Then try to turn the engine over. If it hasn't freed up by then you're going to have to crack the cases. Assuming it worked make sure you drain the oil and put fresh in, as well as get all the liquid out of the cylinders before you try to run it.

kerosene and transmission fluid make a good penetrating concoction. mix 50/50, and pour in each spark plug hole. let that set for a week topping off as needed, then put the bike in it's highest gear and rock it forward and back a dozen times. repeat every time you walk past it. i had an old bridgestone that locked up between gears (transmission problem) , but then your wheel shouldn't turn either.

charby · « **Reply #12 on:** May 21, 2012, 10:13:40 AM »

What is the make model and year of this bike?

Monkeyleg · « **Reply #13 on:** May 21, 2012, 10:44:14 AM »

Oh, so it's a restoration, and not a bike you've been riding recently?

That's not good. Even if the pistons are rusted in place, and you free them with oil, you're going to need to re-line or re-bore the cylinders and replace rings.

White Horseradish · « **Reply #14 on:** May 21, 2012, 10:53:13 AM »

It's a 1980 Honda CM200 that cost $100. If it doesn't work out, it doesn't work out. I am gonna try, though...

dogmush · « **Reply #15 on:** May 21, 2012, 11:23:52 AM »

Quote from: Monkeyleg on May 21, 2012, 10:44:14 AM

Oh, so it's a restoration, and not a bike you've been riding recently?

That's not good. Even if the pistons are rusted in place, and you free them with oil, you're going to need to re-line or re-bore the cylinders and replace rings.

Ideally yes.

But for a driver, she'll just smoke a little and use a little oil. You don't need ALL that compression.

charby · « **Reply #16 on:** May 21, 2012, 12:30:10 PM »

Quote from: White Horseradish on May 21, 2012, 10:53:13 AM

It's a 1980 Honda CM200 that cost $100. If it doesn't work out, it doesn't work out. I am gonna try, though...

I think they only made those for 2 years, before you get too much further make sure you can find parts. I work on older outboards for fun and resale, I have learned to stay away from older one with a production run of a couple years. I finally got rid of a 1970 40hp Mercury 400, this was only made for 2 years and parts were becoming ~~hard~~ impossible to find, I got rid of it for a loss to get out of the garage, ended up trading it for a Mossberg 500.

Nick1911 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 21, 2012, 12:32:50 PM »

Quote from: White Horseradish on May 21, 2012, 10:53:13 AM

It's a 1980 Honda CM200 that cost $100. If it doesn't work out, it doesn't work out. I am gonna try, though...

Small world. I have an 81 CM400 I've been tinkering with.

Mine turns over, though.

White Horseradish · « **Reply #18 on:** May 21, 2012, 02:11:56 PM »

Quote from: charby on May 21, 2012, 12:30:10 PM

I think they only made those for 2 years, before you get too much further make sure you can find parts.

So far I'm into it for the 100 I paid, $40 for the clutch, and $30 for the mirrors.

I'm keeping my eye on CL for something cheep that needs less work.

griz · « **Reply #19 on:** May 21, 2012, 02:29:25 PM »

Just curious, how do you know the clutch is bad if you can't turn the engine over?

BobR · « **Reply #20 on:** May 21, 2012, 02:30:43 PM »

If you wanted to spend the money, oil of wintergreen makes a great penetrating oil. Pour a little of that into each cylinder and wait a day or so. Plus it will give the bike bike a minty, fresh exhaust!

bob

White Horseradish · « **Reply #21 on:** May 21, 2012, 02:36:07 PM »

Quote from: griz on May 21, 2012, 02:29:25 PM

Just curious, how do you know the clutch is bad if you can't turn the engine over?

Because when it's in gear and I pull in the clutch it still won't roll.

Nick1911 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 21, 2012, 02:39:55 PM »

Quote from: White Horseradish on May 21, 2012, 02:36:07 PM

Because when it's in gear and I pull in the clutch it still won't roll.

Actually, my CM400 was like this when I got it. I was able to get it to break free by putting the bike on the center stand, 1st gear. Plugs out. Crank with electric starter. Once everything is moving as fast as it's going to go, stomped on the rear brake.

*shrugs* probably not the recommended procedure, but it worked for me.

gunsmith · « **Reply #23 on:** May 21, 2012, 03:15:53 PM »

My first bike was a CM, a 400 version-cost me 100 as well!
It had over 70 thou on the odometer I must have put another 50 on it at least.

At the end of its life the only way I could start it up in the a.m was because I would park it on tall hills and bump start it on the way down.

I was under the impression you still need a batt anyway, even if kickstarting.

Good luck!

RoadKingLarry · « **Reply #24 on:** May 21, 2012, 04:05:47 PM »

Another alternative for breaking the pistons loose if it is seized is ATF.

If your object is to ride THAT bike then it's doable but your cost is very likely going to be quite a bit higher than value. If your object is to ride A bike it may be time to cut your losses and find something else.

I'd be surprised if there isn't a Honda CM forum on the net somewhere.

News:

Author Topic: I think my motorcycle is worse than I thought... (Read 8598 times)