Cordless Drill/Drivers

[Northwoods]

Our NiMH powered Makita drill/driver is basically toast.  One battery will only give a couple minutes run time, the other is better but still past its normally useful capacity.  Plus the motor and clutch is clearly not what used to be.

Apparently cordless drills have changed a lot in the nearly 10 years since we bought that one.  What should I be looking for in the new generation?  What are the good values (i.e. not the cheap junk but not the gold plated version either)?

[Perd Hapley]

Your current drill, what voltage is it? Is it 1/2" chuck, or 3/8," or what?

[Regolith]

Our NiMH powered Makita drill/driver is basically toast.  One battery will only give a couple minutes run time, the other is better but still past its normally useful capacity.  Plus the motor and clutch is clearly not what used to be.

Apparently cordless drills have changed a lot in the nearly 10 years since we bought that one.  What should I be looking for in the new generation?  What are the good values (i.e. not the cheap junk but not the gold plated version either)?

I've had good luck with the mid-value Black and Decker stuff ($60-80), though I don't really use a drill all that often, so I can't say how well they would hold up to heavy use.

I got a B&D Matrix for Christmas that's pretty neat; it allows you to change out heads. They have a regular driver, an impact driver, a jigsaw, and a couple of other heads for it. It only comes with one head, though, and you have to buy the others seperately; they're $40 each, IIRC. Base drill is $70, I believe. Edit: Base drill has a 3/8" chuck, though.

Haven't used it for anything yet, though, but it feels pretty solid. It's a 20v and uses a Lithium battery.

[Northwoods]

18V, 2.6Ah.  1/2" chuck

Makita 6347D

[Monkeyleg]

I have this Ryobi that I bought new. I've done a lot of work with it, putting up new fencing and other jobs. I love it. The batteries charge quickly, the drill has tons of torque, and it's built well.

It's the first really good drill I've ever had, so I'm a little biased.

[Perd Hapley]

I have this Ryobi that I bought new. I've done a lot of work with it, putting up new fencing and other jobs. I love it. The batteries charge quickly, the drill has tons of torque, and it's built well.

It's the first really good drill I've ever had, so I'm a little biased.

I've used a couple of those. They are really not bad. If I planned to keep a drill for ten years, I'd look for something a little more up-market.

I'm not terribly familiar with the current market, but I would hesitate to buy a drill with a plastic and steel chuck (like the Ryobi above). They seem to be "homeowner-grade." The tougher "contractor-grade" tools tend to have an all-metal chuck.

Also, Li-ion batteries seem all the rage now, and you can get lighter, smaller drills, now, in 18V, 1/2", if you want.

[Monkeyleg]

$150 is a lot for me to spend on a drill, Fistful. That was pushing it.

It seems like the chuck is metal, but with a plastic or rubber surround. I'll have to look at it closely.

If I was going to go contractor-level, I'd go with Milwaukee Electric Tool. But I don't have $1000 to spend on a drill.

[Perd Hapley]

$150 is a lot for me to spend on a drill, Fistful. That was pushing it.

It seems like the chuck is metal, but with a plastic or rubber surround. I'll have to look at it closely.

If I was going to go contractor-level, I'd go with Milwaukee Electric Tool. But I don't have $1000 to spend on a drill.

I was not trying to criticize you at all, or your drill. For the OP's benefit I was saying that that particular Ryobi is not a bad choice. Since he's managed to kill a Makita, I just think he's probably looking for something a little tougher.

Yes, the working parts of the chuck are definitely metal, with a plastic collar around it. I've just found that it marks the difference between two different grades of tool. I could be totally wrong. I know when I went from a blue Ryobi with the plastic-looking chuck to a Ridgid with an all-steel chuck, it was a definite step up in performance.

Home Depot sells a Milwaukee 18V 1/2" for $170. I don't know about that particular drill, but Milwaukee seems to be a pretty solid brand. I have some of their 12V tools, and they do jobs they really have no business doing, for their size and power.

[Monkeyleg]

I didn't think you were criticizing, Fistful. Sorry if I gave that impression.

$170 for a Milwaukee Electric anything is cheap. My BIL uses Milwaukee Electric for all of his plumbing/HVAC work, and some of those tools cost a couple grand each.

[cassandra and sara's daddy]

Milwaukee guy myself. 1 thing I like is the lithium ion batteries fit my older tools . I work mine  like a rented mule. have the whole ensemble. batteries aren't cheap shop around you can get them cheaper.or get em rebuilt.i got 18 volt impact driver and drill (2 tools) for 120 off ebay  one battery

[geronimotwo]

i have the makita li-ion 18v compact 1/2" drill, 1/2" hammer drill, driver, and saw.   they work great, and have decent battery life.  i use the compact drill 95% of the time as it is light weight and will drive 4" screws with no problem.  the driver is better for putting on a roof or other apps when you drive a lot of screws as it doesn't torque your wrist like a drill does.  i have no problems with the performance of these tools, but i do have regrets investing in the makita system as my local store now carries milwaukee and they seem to have many more apps for their system (pipe cutters, etc). 

[Boomhauer]

I wouldnt waste my time with a Ryobi or Black and Decker. Theyd always cheap out at work by buying those and they were no bueno.

Highly recommend Porter Cable.

[lupinus]

Biggest question, what are you using it for?

For basic around the house stuff, the mid range and up B&D, Skill, and Ryobi stuff works well. Just keep in mind what they are, decent quality homeowner/light DIY grade tools. No need to spend 100+ to hang a few shelves and similar tasks on occasion. They fill that role well but wont hold up well for heavier use.

For contracting or heavy DIY, or just cause you feel mo powa is mo bettah, it's defiantly worth the step up. In that arena I'd go with DeWalt, Milwaukee, or Bosch.

[AJ Dual]

Most anything will work okay for occasional home use. Net result of B&D's acquisition of DeWalt seems to be a modest cheapening of the DeWalts and some improvements in the B&D's...

However, if you see any good deals on Bosch or Hitachi snap those up.

[geronimotwo]

I wouldnt waste my time with a Ryobi or Black and Decker. Theyd always cheap out at work by buying those and they were no bueno.

Highly recommend Porter Cable.

like others have said, these are fine for occasional jobs, but in addition to durabilty one of the big differences in price is the rpm's. 

[Balog]

Dewalt is overpriced crap. I'll second the recommendation for Porter Cable, or at least their nimh models. Haven't tried the lithium.

[Lee]

You could buy two new batteries for $100 or less.  Anything wrong with the drill itself - or are you just wanting a new drill?
I bought a new battery for my 20 year old Makita last year.  I've still got a jones for a new drill, but I'll still keep the Makita for light work.

[Monkeyleg]

Ryobi is a home DIY-grade brand? Man, $150 doesn't buy much these days.

[Doggy Daddy]

Ryobi is a home DIY-grade brand? Man, $150 doesn't buy much these days.

They should have at least come with moccasins for that price.


(IBTI)

[birdman]

Dewalt is overpriced crap. I'll second the recommendation for Porter Cable, or at least their nimh models. Haven't tried the lithium.

Disagree, my dad and I have killed tools of any brand, and the dewalt contractor grade drill/drivers have been the best so far for cordless, especially the 18/24V lithium nano ones.  Milwaukee is making great strides though, and my go-to for recip, circular saw, and for corded drills you can't beat a hole shooter...those things will be around after the nuclear Armaggedon

[Ben]

for corded drills you can't beat a hole shooter...those things will be around after the nuclear Armaggedon

I have one from back when I was doing oilfield construction in the early 80's. Still purrs like a kitten (or growls like a tiger). They'll spin a little guy if the bit gets stuck, just like in the cartoons.

Referring to a couple of posts above - are new DeWalt batteries compatible with older drills? I've got one 15 or so year old one and one that's 10 years old, and batteries on both are getting pretty short on run time. I wasn't sure you could use a newer Lithium battery with an older drill motor. The ten year old batteries are from an 18 volt kit, so would run a recip saw and circular saw as well.

[Balog]

My opinion of Dewalt is based in using the angle grinders in a machine shop. The cordless drills work ok, but don't justify the price imho. The angle grinders suck.

[Northwoods]

Initial use will be light household/DIY stuff.  But, I still harbor delusions of getting my old woodshop back.  In which case any drill would probably see moderate-heavy DIY level use.

[Cliffh]

I've run through a couple of B&D 18v driver/drills in the last 5 years.  They've been mostly used for moderate around the house stuff and worked, but I'm thinking to spend a bit more next time, probably going to DeWalt.

The current B&D has a great feature I've been unable to find on anything else.  The chuck is removable (press buttons on both sides of the chuck and it pulls off) and there's a 1/4" hex drive under it.  I normally keep a #2 phillips bit there; drill the pilot hole, remove the chuck and drive the screw.  Tons easier than constantly changing out the drill & driver bits.

[Tallpine]