Costco always spins them on to the lug with an air wrench (just to touch) then tightens with a torque wrench. And not just to some generic torque, I've seen them consulting a manual of some type before setting the torque.
That would be good for most folks, but not for me.
Decades ago, on a cross-country trip I was passed by a late-model Mustang on an Interstate somewhere like Kansas. I was doing the speed limit, and the Mustang blew by me like I was standing still. A few miles down the road I pulled into a Stuckey's, and there was the Mustang -- with a totally shredded tire on the right rear. It had been a retread, but the speed overheated it and the tread parted company with the carcass.
It turned out to be a young couple on their honeymoon. And the guy couldn't get the lug nuts off, because they were rusted onto the studs and to the rims (which were steel) and all he had was a dorky handle that came with the jack. I had a 4-way spanner wrench in my car, so I helped him get the lug nuts loosened, and I also coaxed him into pulling his dipstick and putting a couple of drops of oil on each stud.
I've bought used cars on which the lug nuts were so frozen that I broke an impact socket trying to get them loose. So, a very long time ago, I started putting Never-Seez on my wheel studs. And I've never had a lug nut weld itself to the stud. BUT -- Never-Seez is a thread lubricant, and torque values are almost always specified as being for "clean, dry" threads. With lubrication, torque values should be reduced by a value of 15% to 25% (depending on the size and thread pitch). Since customers aren't allowed in the shop at most places, even a shop that uses a torque wrench would have no way of knowing that my lug nuts should be torqued to 90 ft-lbs rather than the 115 ft-lbs the Jeep service manual specifies.