Hot water heater crapped out

[Lennyjoe]

Finally gave up the ghost.  Been meaning to change it out since sediment has been building up (by the sounds of the popping when it heats up) but now it’s generated an internal gas leak. 

We changed our well pump a few months ago and thought maybe the well mixed up some sulfur in the water.  Been smelling like it more and more in the last couple of weeks.  Finally realized it wasn’t the well after all by accident. 

How do you ask?  By running cold water only into a glass and sniff testing.  No odd smell.  Run hot water for a few and fill up a glass and I can immediately tell the water doesn’t look right.  Almost carbonated looking and smells like sulfur (or the rotten egg smell from gas).

Immediately go downstairs and shut off gas at the tank and the valve above the thermostat.  New tank standing by so I’ll tackle the change tomorrow.

Seems like disaster avoided (knock on wood).  Never realized gas could leak I to a tank like that.  Seems odd it would happen but the old tank is like 15 years old.

On another note, we’ve been thinking about a tankless hot water delivery system but spending another $500 isn’t really in the budget this year so a $500 replacement 40 gallon will have to do for now.

[Kingcreek]

I can’t visualize how NG or LP would get into the water. It’s more likely the sacrificial anode rod (or whatever the hell they call them) is gone.
Hot water heaters around here don’t last much more than 4-5 years anymore.

[bedlamite]

It’s more likely the sacrificial anode rod (or whatever the hell they call them) is gone.

^this. Take it out and plug it. That will tell you for sure.

[K Frame]

Uhm... I really doubt that it's natural gas leaking INTO your water tank.

I think you have a crapped out anode rod, you've got rust in the tank and you've got iron bacteria living in there. They produce a sulfur smell in the water.

[K Frame]

Information on iron bacteria...

https://www.health.state.mn.us/communities/environment/water/wells/waterquality/ironbacteria.html

[Lennyjoe]

Probably is the case.  Assumed it may be a leak but the tank is long overdue for change.  Gonna swap it out in the morning regardless

[MechAg94]

Something for me to think about.  My current hot water heater has been in service for several years now.  Previous one only lasted a few years.  It pops a lot when it heats up, but has been doing that a while.  I guess I need to do a close inspection to check it out.  Make sure nothing is sneaking up on me. 

[Lennyjoe]

Probably didn’t help that I haven’t schooled the well after we switched out the well pump a few months ago.

Need to add that to my routine.

https://www.cleanwaterstore.com/resource/how-to-guides/how-to-shock-chlorinate-a-well-to-kill-bacteria/

[K Frame]

"It pops a lot when it heats up, but has been doing that a while. "

On a gas water heater that's normally caused by sediment in the bottom of the tank. It traps pockets of water that can super heat and flash to steam, causing the popping noise. It can also be caused by water flowing through the mineral deposits and josting them around.

Years ago I helped a friend replace his gas water heater. It was LOADED with mineral deposits, to the point where it was clogging the drain valve.

Once you get the new on in place, read up on:

1. Maintaining the anode rod.

2. Maintaining the tank to remove mineral deposits.

If you keep up with those two things there's no reason why a water heater, electric or gas, can't last years longer than its "rated" life.

[Lennyjoe]

K Frame, will do.

New one is in and plumbed up.  Can’t fire it up yet because I’m going for a 3” to 4” exhaust vent and need one more piece to finish it.  The new one has a higher BTU burn and a plumber friend recommended the vent size in rot keep it from tripping or inadequately venting the fumes.

[grampster]

It's always a good idea to hook a hose to the heater and drain off several gallons which will remove any sediment build up in the bottom of it.  I do mine every 6 mos. or so.

[WLJ]

"It pops a lot when it heats up, but has been doing that a while. "

On a gas water heater that's normally caused by sediment in the bottom of the tank. It traps pockets of water that can super heat and flash to steam, causing the popping noise. It can also be caused by water flowing through the mineral deposits and josting them around.

Yep
Ours was doing that and a good flush and drain took care of it.

[K Frame]

Now that you've got the new water heater in, make sure you get the anode rod backed out NOW and use either teflon tape or anti seize compound on it.

If you wait too long it will corrode into place and you will never be able to get it out.

[Lennyjoe]

New tank came with a stock rod.  Considering upgrading it to either aluminum or electric.

It’s all installed.  Had to finish the exhaust duct this morning by increasing the size from 3” to 4” since the new heater is 40,000 btu as opposed to the old @34,000. 

[JTHunter]

Is it possible to add some vinegar or other "scale remover" to the water tank after it has been drained and before it is refilled?  I'm wondering if that would help loosen the scale so that, when you the inlet back on, it helps to break loose more scale and flush out more debris.  Or would vinegar, CLR, etc. be bad for the tank itself? 

[K Frame]

Yeah, you can vinegar soak.

But what LennyJoe was describing is a water heater that was likely on its way out, and nothing you can do is going to prevent that once the tank liner fails and the tank itself begins to corrode. Vinegar will even make things worse.

[Lennyjoe]

Final tally was $500 for 40 gallon 40,000 btu tank and $150 in parts (shark bite hoses, gas pipe fittings, exhaust flue rework from 3” to 4”. 

Plumber quoted me $800 with a 5 day wait.  Took me a total of 3 hours with 2 trips to Home Depot and 1 to a local plumbing supplier.

Hot shower absent smell of pond water was delightful today!

[K Frame]

Water heaters aren't that hard to do at all. Basic plumbing and electrical skills, really.

Gas ones are a little more daunting, but even a moderately competent homeowner can tackle those if he takes his time and watches some videos on how to correctly install and test gas connections.

The one I helped Mtnbkr with years ago was the first gas one I ever did. I've done several since then. Not my favorite thing in the world to do because I'm not really comfortable with gas, but I don't fear it.

[K Frame]

New tank came with a stock rod.  Considering upgrading it to either aluminum or electric.

It’s all installed.  Had to finish the exhaust duct this morning by increasing the size from 3” to 4” since the new heater is 40,000 btu as opposed to the old @34,000. 

Upgrade when the old anode rod craps out. No need to upgrade to a new rod on a new heater.

Here you go. Good video on replacing the anode rod.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=water+heater+anode+rod+replacement#kpvalbx=_kfIJY92tHJix5NoPkICR0AU20

[Lennyjoe]

Water heaters aren't that hard to do at all. Basic plumbing and electrical skills, really.

Gas ones are a little more daunting, but even a moderately competent homeowner can tackle those if he takes his time and watches some videos on how to correctly install and test gas connections.

Yea I’m real careful when it comes to gas lines.  Double and triple check for leaks using a sniffer (gas detector) before, during and after. 

[K Frame]

I'm old school for gas line testing.

Nothing beats soapy water.

[Brad Johnson]

I'm old school for gas line testing.

Nothing beats soapy water.

QFT.

Brad

[JTHunter]

I'm old school for gas line testing.

Nothing beats soapy water.

Agreed!! 

[Perd Hapley]

Since no else has asked, why are you heating hot water?

I crack me up.

[230RN]

Since no else has asked, why are you heating hot water?

I crack me up.

I gotta admit, that was funny.

And let's not forget a mirror and flashlight for bubble-checking with the soapy water.

(Am I being shadow-banned?  I thought I was being shadow-banned. Or maybe I just don't deserve responses.  )

Terry, 230RN