*^$%^& Chinese batteries

[Hawkmoon]

I have had an infrared, non-contact medical thermometer that was very handy. I have a cold -- or something -- and both my doc at the VA and I are wondering if it might actually be COVID-19 (again). So I pulled out the thermometer, and it was dead.

No problem, it runs on AAA batteries, and I keep those around. Well, one of the batteries fell right out, but the other one wouldn't come out until I had partially disassembled the case to make wiggle room, and used needle nose pliers to extract it. Of course, the battery had leaked, and destroyed the contacts at the base.

So, I'll order a new one from Amazon. This time I'll toss the batteries that come with it, use brand-name alkalines, and NOT store it with the batteries in it.

[RoadKingLarry]

Even the good name brands can be suspect. I've lost several mini-maglights with energizer of duracell batteries from the battery leaking and nearly killed a classic photographic spot meter with a a leaking AA energizer. 

[WLJ]

I've swore never to buy duracell again after having one after another leak.

[MillCreek]

I have also heard and experienced leakage problems with Kirkland Signature batteries from Costco.  The Net says that Duracell makes them for Costco.

[WLJ]

I have also heard and experienced leakage problems with Kirkland Signature batteries from Costco.  The Net says that Duracell makes them for Costco.

Yep, discovered that after I had problems with them too.
For the most part energizers and Member's Mark (Sam's) have been good.

[bedlamite]

Haven't had a Rayovac leak since I started using them about 20 years ago. They are the only ones still made in the USA. 

[WLJ]

Mostly use Eneloops rechargeables now. I can charge them, throw them in a drawer, and years later they're still good to go. Pulled some from the back of drawer that may have been in there almost 10 years and they still had ~80% of their charge. A good charger is a must, don't cheap out on the charger.

[Ben]

Yeah, I also swore off Kirkland batteries some years ago. One of their few bad products. I notice the ones now look different, so Costco may have re-sourced them, but I'm not up for testing them.

I mostly use slow-discharge rechargeables in most stuff I have that sits for longer periods to avoid the leakage issue altogether.

[Brad Johnson]

I go through five or six dozen AA batteries a month for our door badge readers. I will not, under any circumstance short of imminent bodily injury or death, buy another Duracell. It got to the point that at least half of them would leak, some while still in the package. I switched to Energizer, either Max or Industrial, and the problem is now one or two leaks out of every couple dozen batteries.

If you only use the thermometer occasionally, pull the batteries. I've started doing that for most everything that's occasional use. It's only a small pain to pop them in when I need the thing, far less than the pain of replacing it. The only stuff I leave batteries in now are the emergency flashlights scattered around the house, and I change those out every six months.

Brad

[MechAg94]

If you don't go through them real fast, you could just buy the Lithium AA and AAA batteries.  That is what I did for my night vision. 

[zahc]

I don't use alkaline batteries anymore. High-drain devices don't work well with them and low-drain devices (like a glove box flashlight) just die from leakage. I either use Eneloops or lithium AA/AAA.

 In terms of cost per joule, the lithium batteries are competitive with alkaline, but they never leak, work in bitter cold, push more current, and are about half the weight.

[HankB]

Duracell reimbursed me for a headlamp that their leaky batteries ruined.

[dogmush]

Not battery related, but I have found those cheap chinese IR thermometers to be wildly inaccurate.  The Army bought all the units several,  and my wife bought one at the start of the pandemic. Not only do they not read the same as another one reading the same spot, but they aren't repeatable to themselves either. Like +/- 3 degrees.

Just buyer beware on Amazon IR thermometers.

[Nick1911]

Duracell reimbursed me for a headlamp that their leaky batteries ruined.

Rayovac did that for me too.  I wrote about it here.

[RocketMan]

White vinegar on a Q-tip will wipe a lot of the leaky battery gunk off of metal contacts.  Afterwards, clean off any remaining residue with isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip.  I've restored some gear damaged by leaking batteries using that technique.  The thin nickel plating on the contacts is usually destroyed by the battery gunk, but that usually doesn't cause much of the problem.

[230RN]

I've had some trouble with cells fitting into the battery clips lately.  Don't know whether the cells are too big or the clips too small.

I don't usually have leakage problems.

IR-wise, I've had good luck with the Harbor Freight ones.  I've got two because I lost and then later found the first one again.  I check my temp on forehead, ear, and bottom of chin.  Normal is 92 point something and I can add the extra six or so degrees.  This depends on what I've been doing and where I've been (excercise and outdoors) but I usually just measure it while sitting on the couch, so consistency is possible.

(I still have an old mercury oral thermometer and a Wallgreens electronic one and I was amazed to find them agreeing 100% within the limits  of reading the Hg one.)

 

[K Frame]

Got luck a bit ago.

Pulled out my infra red thermometer to check the batteries.

Both had started leaking, but just. Hardly any contamination and no corrosion yet on the contacts. Tossed the batteries, cleaned up the contacts with rubbing alcohol.

All seems well.

Batteries were Toshiba AAAs, which, I believe, came with the unit when I bought it on Amazon a couple of years ago.