Brush cutting power tools?

[SADShooter]

A spinoff from the weed abatement thread:

Those of you who clear brush (cedar scrub in this case, Junction, TX area) what do you use and why?

Along with the fire ants, we have lots of cedar that needs incremental clearing as part of a Wildlife Management Plan (re: tax exemption). Incremental means 10 acres/year. Wife and I are out-of-shape desk jockeys and the property is a 3-hour drive. We approached the problem this weekend with hand tools. (Insert laughter here.) Nearing exhaustion with little result, wife said: "This is a waste without a chainsaw."

So, I'm looking for feeback on chainsaw/pole saw or other options for cutting small cedar trees (2-6" trunk diameter) much of at or close to ground level, with rock and cactus thrown in for added zest. Tractor is a non-option due to cost/location (rental may be possible if feasible/necessary). Gas is probably more practical than electric as power access would require a generator. Is there an option that won't require as much bending to reach the ground as a chainsaw? I'm willing to work at this, but I want to do it safely/sanely.

Appreciate any help,

SADShooter

[Azrael256]

A tractor with a loader, or a small bulldozer is your best bet.  If I can, I like to reserve the chainsaw for larger trees that the dozer would have trouble with.  If we're talking scrub trees, a tractor with a brushhog should do just fine.  I wouldn't go after something 6" in diameter, but the short, bushy ones should be no problem.  

I don't know a whole lot about the Junction area, but if it's up on the same shelf as the Hill County area, you can probably just pull out the larger trees.  Wait until it's good and dry, and tie a chain to the trailer hitch on your pickup.  They'll usually come right up out of the ground.

With all these options, I will say one thing.  I have pushed, pulled, and torn more cedar trees than I really care to think about, and the one tool that I have used more than anything is a homelite chainsaw.  If you're trying to clear 10 acres the easy way, either buy a D9, or get a chainsaw.  Short of a flamethrower, that's as easy as it gets.  You're going to need one to dice up the remains for firewood anyway, so you might as well.

Edited to add:  If you're planning on burning the brush, WAIT UNTIL WINTER.  You want a good cold rain going, and the needles need to be thoroughly browned.  A green cedar will go up like a small atom bomb.  The johnson grass is going to be starting to dry out and turn brown right about now, so it's the perfect time to set the whole county on fire if you're not careful.  90% of the cedar I have cut down has been to provide a fire break because the idiot neighbors, a solid mile away, have gotten a fire within garden hose distance of the house.

[SADShooter]

No burning until deer season. (And then in a controlled camp fire). The WMP actually calls for piling cedar brush to attract turkeys.

Any thoughts on chainsaw minimum requirements? Blade length, hp, oiling, etc.? And also necessary safety equipment? i've got decent glasses and gloves, any other suggestions?

[stevelyn]

Chainsaw= Stihl 032 or Farm Boss w/ 20" bar. Looks like you got the safety equipment covered. I would add hearing protection and maybe a set of chaps if you think you need them.
If you're not experienced sharpening chains, a sharpening guide that clamps on the bar might be worthwhile or you can buy a couple of extra chains, pay to have them sharpend and change out the chains when you need to. It takes me about 30 minute to sharpen a chain. Cedar is a soft wood, as long as you don't get the bar and chain into rocks or the ground, you should be able to cut most of the day without sharpening or changing out the chain.
For oiling I prefer manual oilers, but it may not be an option anymore. I normally use 10W-40 motor oil for bar and chain lube. They make a bar and chain lube specific to the task that's a lot thicker than motor oil and is suppose to stick to bar and chain better at high rpms. I've never used it though since the cold weather up here would thicken it too much to be dispensed through the oiler.
For your gas/oil mix just follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Most 2-cycles run at 50:1, I mix at 40:1 with no problems other than slightly more smoke.
One of the best do-all machines ever made for plowing, land clearing and maintenance was the old Gravely tractors. They could be fitted with a rotory plow, rotory mower deck, sickle-bar mower, a snow blower attachment, towed seat and other implements. Unfortunately they're not made anymore and nothing else comes close to the types and number of tasks the Gravely could do.

[Fatcat]

Definately get a set of kevlar chaps if you get a chainsaw... accidents can happen real quick, and it's just a good safety measure. Good hard boots and hearing protection are nice, too.

Around the farm we use a clearing saw (basically a big weed-eater with a circular saw blade) to clear trails.. it cuts through the 3-4" trees that pop up around here easily, along with everything else in it's way. It also lets you work standing up, which is really nice. A chainsaw would probably be more versatile, though.

[SADShooter]

Fatcat:

Please tell me more about your clearing saw? Make, specs? That sounds like a better initial approach, with a chainsaw definitely on the horizon.

Thanks!

[Azrael256]

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention: If you're inexperienced with chainsaws, get a device called a Safe-T-Tip.  It's a little plastic dealie that covers the tip of the bar and prevents you from engaging it into the wood.  It seems to me that they probably come with the saw these days, but if they don't, it's a good idea.  It's sort of like training wheels.  After some use, you won't need it anymore, but it will prevent you from burying the saw in your cranium the first time.  

And a big +1 on the good boots.  Big ones with as much tough leather as high up your leg as you can get.  I have seen more people chop their feet with axes than with chainsaws, but chainsaws and cedar trees (which are pretty springy) can make for rapidly moving cut pieces.  It took exactly one 30' tree pouncing on my foot after cutting for me to figure this out.  Not a serious injury, but I still have a really ugly scar on my left foot.  Jungle boots will not work.  Do keep in mind that it is wise to remove any branches bigger than your wrist before you start cutting up the trunk.  Otherwise the sudden change in weight can move the tree enough to knock you over, which is REAL bad when you're running a powered saw.

As for oil, stevelyn's suggestion of motor oil should do just fine.  I have always put used, but strained motor oil in chainsaws, and I have never had one burn up or bind for lack of oil (pinching the chain is a different story...  whoooo dad was mad about that one).

[Paddy]

I'm a 59 yo desk jockey and I can tell you from experience that an hour or two with a chain saw is about max.  After that my arms get too tired to safely use the saw, and that is with a 14" bar.  If you're cutting trees close to the ground, you'll be bending or kneeling, holding the saw sideways, which is more difficult than cutting down.  Then, you'll still have the stumps to deal with.

If it were me, I'd be tempted to buy a used bulldozer and leave it on site.  You'll still need a chainsaw to cut up the tree on the ground, then you'll have to deal with the slash, which will require a woodchipper. (I just love reasons to buy power tools  )

When you're done, sell the bulldozer and hopefully the costs involve don't exceed the tax savings.  Or if it is investment property, capitalize the costs into the basis to reduce the gain on sale.

[USP45usp]

Rent a bob cat or a mini dozer.  You can find them at any rent-all place.  Let the machine do the work for you.  If you rent the one with tracks, it can go just about anywhere and they are small enough to get into tight areas.

Wayne

[Tallpine]

If you're going to get a chainsaw, don't even consider anything but a Stihl or Husky.

Keep it sharp, to save wear and tear on both you and the saw.  I can sharpen mine (30" bar)freehand in maybe 10 minutes, but I have done it about 10,000 times

The commercial bar oil has an additive to make it "sticky."  They also make a version for cold weather (usually looks red like hydraulic or a/t oil).  The bar oil isn't really any more expensive than motor oil and makes the bar & chain last longer.

A long bar may be helpful if your cedar is like mine (juniper), with branches coming out at ground level and even below.  Sometimes have to reach in and cut a bunch of limbs to get access to the trunk(s).  But the longer bar makes the saw heavier.

Try to get a saw with the rim type drive sprocket, or change it out the first time the sprocket wears out (about 2 chains).  This allows you to just replace the little rim instead of the whole clutch drum.

Use good mix oil - Stihl or Husky brand.  Generic oil won't properly lubricate a modern hi rpm saw.

I also have a Stihl brush saw that allows me to cut smaller stuff standing up.  You need one with the bicycle type handlebar.

I find the stacking even more work than the cutting.   An hour of cutting produces enough material for several hours of dragging and stacking.  The burning is a lot of work too, as you need to keep tossing stuff into the middle or else a ring of unburned material gets left.

With my 40 acres, I figure it may take the rest of my life to get it thinned out (and then it will be time to start over).

It takes a pretty good sized machine to bull doze trees out of the ground.  My old Case tractor-loader just bounces off of even small trees.  I can get one rooted out but it takes a lot of time and is tough on the tractor.

[Tallpine]

Oh, and these folks are a good source for supplies (including bars, chains, sprockets):

http://www.baileys-online.com/

[JAlexander]

The Stihl recommendation is a good one.  I use a Farm Boss, and it works really well.  If you're too impatient to use a file, there are stone and jig sets for Dremel tools that work really well.  I can sharpen my chainsaw in about two minutes, if I go slowly and carefully.

Also, while I haven't used one, I know a few folks who swear by tree shears.  You can rent them as an attachment for a Bobcat, and if you're fairly good with the Bobcat you can cut a lot of cedars in a day.  I seem to recall that they can cut up an 8" cedar with one go, and larger ones if you maneuver around a time or two.  

James

[Fatcat]

Oops, sorry for taking so long.

Anyway, the clearing saw is a Stihl FS550. It's basically a chainsaw motor on a pole; pushing close to 4 HP, it's got plenty of power for what we use it for. Taking the blade guard off makes cutting some stuff a little easier, but you've gotta be careful. It will cut through small trees just fine, though for the larger ones you need to make 2 cuts. You probably would be able to get by with a smaller model...

The recommendations of Stihl are good ones, Stihl is the only thing you'll find in the logging supply stores around here. I have limited experience with Husqvarna as well, but their stuff seemed ok.

Anyway, the Bobcat still seems like the easiest way to do stuff, especially the trees. I've never seen tree shears but they sound like good stuff, or maybe one of these. Whatever you use, it's gonna be a ton of work.