Author Topic: Cabinet repair (Read 4849 times)

BridgeRunner · « **on:** November 15, 2009, 01:27:25 PM »

So, anyone know how to repair old cabinets?

The problem is that throughout the house several of the cabinet door hinges are coming loose. The wood into which the hinges screwed is pretty worn out and chewed up. I have two cabinets doors that can no longer to tightened up to good usability, and others threatening to get to that point.

Is there some kind of filler I can put in there, or is there something else I need to do?

Grandpa Shooter · « **Reply #1 on:** November 15, 2009, 01:35:18 PM »

Any good hardware store has flexible wire mesh just for that purpose. Cut off some, shove it into the hole with an awl, rear end of a crochet needle, ice pick, or other similar tool, nd then with firm pressure start the screws into the holes. In the olden days when you were just a yung'un, we used wooden match sticks slivers of wood, or old metal window screening.

bedlamite · « **Reply #2 on:** November 15, 2009, 01:40:17 PM »

AJ Dual · « **Reply #3 on:** November 15, 2009, 01:48:15 PM »

Matchsticks and a little wood glue, maybe some sawdust mixed in too. Done properly it'll be stronger than the wood that surrounds it. Wood putty will work, but I find it to be a bit crumbly/brittle for mounting moving parts/hardware.

JB Weld or other two-part epoxies will certainly do the trick but it'll have to be pre-drilled or it'll split when the hinge screw is driven into it.

Unless it was an exceptionally heavy or large cabinet door, I'd only bother to do the epoxy route if it was an actual door frame for people that was stripped out where the hinge plate screws went.

Waitone · « **Reply #4 on:** November 15, 2009, 02:17:46 PM »

Tooth picks and wood glue. Take a wad of tooth picks slightly larger than the hole and saturate with wood glue. Force the wad into the hole (a tack hammer is just the right amount of force) and give'er a few minutes to set up. Come back with a safety blade and cut flush with the wood being careful not to nick the good stuff. Give it some time to harden. Remount hinges and treat yourself to beer or Chardonnay or whatever it is aspiring lawyers drink these days.

BridgeRunner · « **Reply #5 on:** November 15, 2009, 08:11:34 PM »

Quote from: Waitone on November 15, 2009, 02:17:46 PM

treat yourself to beer or Chardonnay or whatever it is aspiring lawyers drink these days.

Considering the hiring environment for new lawyers these days, especially ones who don't want to relocate, that would be Mohawk vodka, straight, and in large quantities.

Harold Tuttle · « **Reply #6 on:** November 15, 2009, 09:51:43 PM »

you can also counter sink a machine screw in from the opposite side

Monkeyleg · « **Reply #7 on:** November 15, 2009, 10:10:27 PM »

Counter sink a machine screw, then fill the hole with toothpicks, sawdust, JB Weld, wood glue and metal screening. Buy some C4 in case you need to take it apart again.

BridgeRunner · « **Reply #8 on:** November 15, 2009, 10:41:26 PM »

I opted for the toothpicks-and-glue option, because it was free. Seems to have worked awesomely. Thanks!

CNYCacher · « **Reply #9 on:** November 15, 2009, 10:43:04 PM »

Do you have access to a router? Trim or otherwise?

BridgeRunner · « **Reply #10 on:** November 15, 2009, 10:59:54 PM »

Quote from: CNYCacher on November 15, 2009, 10:43:04 PM

Do you have access to a router? Trim or otherwise?

Wireless, with printserver.

CNYCacher · « **Reply #11 on:** November 15, 2009, 11:09:33 PM »

Quote from: BridgeWalker on November 15, 2009, 10:59:54 PM

Wireless, with printserver.

heh.

I would use a router with a top bearing or no bearing bit, square end.

Set the depth so you retain the front surface of the door, and cut out a pocket from the back side. glue a block of new wood in there and call it a day

BridgeRunner · « **Reply #12 on:** November 15, 2009, 11:17:44 PM »

See, if I had a router, I wouldn't have to worry about the sliders in my kitchen cabinets falling out each time I use them.

Azrael256 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 15, 2009, 11:22:13 PM »

Btw, the router and wood block thing is called a "Dutchman". Dunno why I know that.

Sawdust · « **Reply #14 on:** November 16, 2009, 10:40:36 AM »

Toothpicks and glue are the schiznit for this problem.

Although in the last few years I have upgraded the technology by using bamboo skewers insted of toothpicks -they are the perfect diameter.

Use a scratch awl to precisely counterpunch where you want to drill your hole as the bit can wander in the repair if you don't.

All of his assumes real wood, and not termite barf.

Sawdust

roo_ster · « **Reply #15 on:** November 16, 2009, 11:39:07 AM »

Quote from: Sawdust on November 16, 2009, 10:40:36 AM

All of his assumes real wood, and not termite barf.

MDF is of the Devil.

BridgeRunner · « **Reply #16 on:** November 16, 2009, 11:46:05 AM »

House and built in cabinets all date to 1954.

Real wood.

Sawdust · « **Reply #17 on:** November 16, 2009, 02:06:05 PM »

Quote from: jfruser on November 16, 2009, 11:39:07 AM

MDF is of the Devil.

It has its place - but certainly not for cabinet face frames.

Sawdust

Matthew Carberry · « **Reply #18 on:** November 16, 2009, 06:18:12 PM »

Quote from: Azrael256 on November 15, 2009, 11:22:13 PM

Btw, the router and wood block thing is called a "Dutchman". Dunno why I know that.

Because you hate all things Dutch?

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Author Topic: Cabinet repair (Read 4849 times)