A/C PVC Tubing question

[Vodka7]

At work I end up being the general handyman, despite having absolutely no skill or training towards for whatever job I end up doing.

Tonight's job is running PVC tubing from our ceiling mounted air conditioners (which I guess are just the pump/blower?) across the ceiling to drain in the bathroom.  Since this isn't up to code our AC guy won't do it.  The ceiling is an absolute mess of wires, lights (we're a retail store so there are lights EVERYWHERE), and basically I can't get my head close enough to either of the ACs to see where the tubing connects.

Is there any way to splice the new tubing with the old?  I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing but I can get the new tubing run just fine, and then if I can just cut off the old tubing after it connects to the AC and splice the two together my life would be so much more awesome.

Any ideas?  Glue, tape, some connector, a combo of all three?

The new tubing is "clear PVC tubing 3/8ths inch."  Old tubing looks a little thinner, although that might just be the combo of being so close to lights with no working AC frying my brain.  Thanks.

[dogmush]

3/8" Double hose barb, and some hose clamps.  Sold at Home Depot in the plumbing isle.  It looks like this except that it'll have a hose barb on both sides instead of the thread.  Should run about 3 bucks total.  Auto parts stores also often have them in plastic.


But it's a Really Bad Idea to run an A/C condensate line in hose like that.  I realize that it's not your system or building, but don't do that in your house.  3/4" white PVC Pipe is the perffered choice.

[Vodka7]

dogmush:

Thanks a ton for your reply.  Looks like it will work well enough.  Honestly I'm amazed our building hasn't burned down from some of the stuff going on with the AC (e.q. the AC requires at least a 45 watt breaker, but the wiring and breaker we've got it on are only 30watt).

[230RN]

That's one where I'd respectfully tell my boss that it's probably illegal and I need the instructions in writing.

Ten foot pole time.

I'm no expert, but building codes are usually for health and safety.

Find out why it's not code.  If someone gets sick or is injured or the damn building is flooded, or whatever, it'll be your fault, especially since you already know it's not "up to Code."

You might ask the boss to consider the cost of future liabilities versus the cost of "getting it done quick and cheap."

In the last fifteen years, I've had to ask for instructions to do stuff in writing thrice.  I'm still working there.  It's awfully tempting to succumb to a dynamic, "just get it done, dammit!" boss.

But don't.

Think:  "BP."

Terry, 230RN

[dogmush]

It's not to code for a couple reasons.

It's not big enough, and as such is overly suceptable to clogging which leads to gunk on the coil and freezing.  It can also lead to water being spilled out through the ducting (and into the duct insulation) or out of the airhandler into the insulation.  This leads to mold in the insulation and ducting along with all the good health stuff that brings.

It's also not tough enough.  PVC tubing is not real strong.  It can wear through if it rubs the ceiling supports, it can get knawed through by rodents easily, it can get torn or pulled off by folks working on other stuff up there.  When (not if) it fails, it'll start dripping water into the ceiling.  From there the BEST thing that can happen is a moldy, destroyed ceiling panel, and depending on where the puddle forms it can go to electrical shorting, full grown colonies of nastyness, major water damage to all sorts of stuff.

But I also understand that getting a boss to understand he has to drop $300 or so to get a proper drain installed can be very difficult, and I'd be lying if I said I haven't done some shady stuff when I had to to acomplish mission. Just let him know it's a bad idea, and opens the company to liability if any emplyee or customer has one of those black mold allergies.

[Nick1911]

dogmush:

Thanks a ton for your reply.  Looks like it will work well enough.  Honestly I'm amazed our building hasn't burned down from some of the stuff going on with the AC (e.q. the AC requires at least a 45 watt breaker, but the wiring and breaker we've got it on are only 30watt).

I'm hoping you mean amp, not watt. 

[Vodka7]

It's not big enough, and as such is overly suceptable to clogging which leads to gunk on the coil and freezing. 

This has happened repeatedly.  Honestly I'm just trying to get it through the summer...

I'm hoping you mean amp, not watt.

Could be   I'll take your word for it.  Like I said, none of this stuff is really up my alley, just kind of winging my way through it.

[280plus]

if you can figure out how to get a couple tablesoons worth od household bleach into the drain pan and do this monthly you should not clog so readily. Clogs are caused by slime buildup and the bleach will prevent that. 3/4" white PVC is definitely the prefered method.

[dogmush]

If the Air Handler is too much of a pain to get to, or open, you can also duct tape a shop vac to the downstream end of the drain and suck the alge/goop out that way.  It's not as effective as the bleach but is sometimes easier.

[sanglant]

in looking for a dehumidifier recently. it seems like the better units have went to UV(no not blacklights these are much harder on the old eyes) bulbs to kill the mold 'n such that get's in the tank. if you can add one in the return duct work i bet it would really cut down on clogging. 

[roo_ster]

in looking for a dehumidifier recently. it seems like the better units have went to UV(no not blacklights these are much harder on the old eyes) bulbs to kill the mold 'n such that get's in the tank. if you can add one in the return duct work i bet it would really cut down on clogging. 

I saw a system like this made to retrofit on to a residential air handler.

[280plus]

I have to admit I havent gone the UV route yet but the thought of no drain clogs is pretty appealing. I've never heard that particular aspect before but it does make sense.

I use a rag to make the seal between the tube and shop vac hose. Wetting it helps but is usually not necessary.