Author Topic: Cleaning out a motorcycle fuel tank (Read 5022 times)

Matthew Carberry · « **on:** May 06, 2011, 02:29:47 AM »

Pulled the tank so I could check the filter thingie. I knoiw theres rust in there, short of sandblasting is there any way to knock off any loose bits and reseal it or something?

Maybe just give it a good rinse with something?

Regolith · « **Reply #1 on:** May 06, 2011, 02:40:50 AM »

Only thing I can think of is hit it with CLR, and make sure it's rinsed out really well.

Please note, I am not a mechanic and following anything I say may result in the destruction of your engine, and that I am not liable for any damages.

BobR · « **Reply #2 on:** May 06, 2011, 02:52:32 AM »

The method to remove tank rust really depends on how bad the rust is. This is a good start.

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_tankrust.html

After the rust is removed there are a couple of sealers out there but the one I am most familiar with is Kreem. It works well, but can be a little harder to work with. I have heard that people are getting very good results with Por-15 tank sealer and it is easier to work with than Kreem.

Don't forget to check your float bowls for rust also in case some of the rust migrated there, in fact you may want to do a complete carb job.

There are other tank sealing systems out there but you will have to read about them, I have never used any of the newer ones.

bob

<edit> I really didn't want to put this one out there but a long time ago, before better tank cleaning through chemistry, we would use simple abrasion. Tale all of the fittings/petcocks, etc off of the tank, thrown in some 3/8" washers (count them going in), then seal up all of the tank holes. Wrap the tank very well, a moving blanket is ideal, and throw it in the dryer (no heat) for a while. It works best if you are single. Women don't understand that the noise is actually beautiful work being accomplished. Another method I have heard of, very similiar, is to do all of the above but seal it in a 5 gallon bucket and then take it to home depot and let them put it on the paint can shaker for a while. I have never tried it so I don't know how well that will work, or what type of abrasives you want to use in the tank.

good luck

Matthew Carberry · « **Reply #3 on:** May 06, 2011, 03:33:47 AM »

The low-tech options sound like my vague half-assed ideas. I find that strangely confidence building.

I was kinda thinking brass cleaning media and was trying to figure out how to shake it. I don't know that there's a lot of rust in there, I just know it has had condensation and such and the filter was stained.

I plan on doing a carb rebuild anyway, it has been starting rough since I got it a few years back and sat in a shed in the cold for several years before that. I shudder to think what the reservoirs look like.

Anyway, I changed plugs, oil and air filter so all that's left is fuel.

230RN · « **Reply #4 on:** May 06, 2011, 07:19:50 AM »

I used to clean out my 5-gallon wine carboys by sloshing kitty litter around in them. Worked great. The residue from winemaking was pretty sticky stuff, and it was hard to get any kind of brush in there.

Might work for you. Might not. But cheap.

Terry, 230RN

bedlamite · « **Reply #5 on:** May 06, 2011, 07:40:35 AM »

I have successfully used phosphoric acid, you should be able to get it at a farm supply or hardware store. It turns the rust black and is similar to parkerizing. You can drop in some small steel ball bearings with the acid and shake it, but I never did. I've had less success with coating the inside of the tank, it always seems to flake off. The last time I just skipped the sealer and it didn't seem to have any problems. Just make sure when you put it back into storage you fill it with non-ethanol gas and use Sta-bil.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid#Rust_removal

Monkeyleg · « **Reply #6 on:** May 06, 2011, 09:02:42 AM »

I was taught to use marbles rather than anything steel, just so there's no sparks.

Rolling stuff around in the tank will remove any rust large enough to come off and clog your filter. Surface rust can be dealt with using a sealant, or the phosphoric acid Bedlamite mentioned.

My bike is now 22 years old, and rust has never been a problem. Just keep gas in the tank after you get this rust taken care of.

HeroHog · « **Reply #7 on:** May 06, 2011, 09:16:53 AM »

I used a hand full of brass nuts and some kerosene, sealed it and shook it by hand then used Kreem. Works like a charm!

griz · « **Reply #8 on:** May 06, 2011, 10:22:10 AM »

If you are worried about sparks you can use lead shot to get in to all the small spots.

Nick1911 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 06, 2011, 10:29:58 AM »

I used steel chain (Yea, yea, I know), Then hydrochloric acid to etch the metal, then Por-15. Worked really well.

209 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 06, 2011, 10:35:22 AM »

Quote

griz- If you are worried about sparks you can use lead shot to get in to all the small spots.

I had a friend that used to do that when cleaning gas tanks. I thought he was nuts! Years later, I had to clean rust out of a old rototiller tank we were rehabbing. I found out that was actually a great way.

Now of course, the big question question will be "What shot size is best for rust?"

griz · « **Reply #11 on:** May 06, 2011, 12:29:42 PM »

Quote

"What shot size is best for rust?"

Bird shot is best to clean, but if you really want to STOP rust you have to have at least 00

KD5NRH · « **Reply #12 on:** May 06, 2011, 03:19:47 PM »

Detcord.

Bogie · « **Reply #13 on:** May 07, 2011, 03:11:23 AM »

One of the guys here at the Ozarkabad Compound recommends muriatic acid cut 50%...

KD5NRH · « **Reply #14 on:** May 07, 2011, 06:20:33 AM »

Quote from: Bogie on May 07, 2011, 03:11:23 AM

One of the guys here at the Ozarkabad Compound recommends muriatic acid cut 50%...

It provides "liquid shrapnel" for the detcord.

CypherNinja · « **Reply #15 on:** May 08, 2011, 12:40:10 AM »

Evapo-Rust might work pretty well........

zahc · « **Reply #16 on:** May 08, 2011, 01:56:19 AM »

Por-15 is like paint; how the heck do you seal the inside of tank, with no way to get a paintbrush inside?

Matthew Carberry · « **Reply #17 on:** May 08, 2011, 03:19:57 AM »

Quote from: zahc on May 08, 2011, 01:56:19 AM

Por-15 is like paint; how the heck do you seal the inside of tank, with no way to get a paintbrush inside?

Dump it in, close holes, and shake?

Grebnaws · « **Reply #18 on:** May 08, 2011, 11:17:04 AM »

Call a radiator shop. They may be able to boil the rust out or have a treatment for this type of thing. I have tried many home remedies to remove and treat the inside of a motorcycle tank with poor success. Ospho and evapo rust did not work for me. Neither did the electrolytic rust remover. A quick rinse with muriatic acid cleaned them up pretty well but it's powerful stuff. It ate through one of my vintage kz tanks and left pinholes around the welds. The one tank I had kreemed was eaten away in short order by bad ethanol treated fuel, ruining a fresh set of carbs. I was told that wouldn't happen so it's possible my lining did not set properly and I was at fault. How badly rusted is the tank and how valuable is the paint job?

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Author Topic: Cleaning out a motorcycle fuel tank (Read 5022 times)