Author Topic: So, any of you guys into AR-15s, or other rifles with a 1/2-28 threaded muzzle? (Read 5727 times)

Bogie · « **on:** June 26, 2011, 04:03:52 AM »

I've spent most of the past eight months damn near living in a fairly high precision machine shop. And now I'm embarking on a project of my own, after a wee little bit of research...

So, who needs a muzzle brake? Going to be producing several designs, ranging from a spiral to one that will look a lot like a regular AR-15 flash hider. Along with some that are really seeming to help the "stay on target" bit - they're loud, but they're real easy to shoot.

Fly320s · « **Reply #1 on:** June 26, 2011, 07:19:44 AM »

Back.later..Dead.space.bar.

gunsmith · « **Reply #2 on:** June 26, 2011, 01:19:00 PM »

dont you guys know that blood runs in the street every time you look at a gun?
guns kill people!

Bogie · « **Reply #3 on:** June 26, 2011, 04:43:58 PM »

Bogie is NOT having a good year. These things will help y'all shoot through schools, since you'll be able to control your loud and obnoxious bullet hose much better... You need 'em.

never_retreat · « **Reply #4 on:** June 26, 2011, 07:06:20 PM »

If you got all the high tech stuff why not get a permit and make yourself some cans?
Got to be cheaper than buying one.

dogmush · « **Reply #5 on:** June 26, 2011, 09:04:28 PM »

Depending on final design, I might try one out. I always like the "stay on target better" gadgets.

Bogie · « **Reply #6 on:** June 26, 2011, 09:08:00 PM »

The boss doesn't wanna do the permit yet... He had a bad experience with the IRS a few years ago, and he -may- consider the stuff with F-Troop in a coupla years.

And at this point, I have enough money to buy some raw steel... Going to do some 303 for the stainless, and something decent that will blue/black for the rest of the world.

Maybe about the time the boss decides he wants to do a license, I can do one myself. But for now, I'm just trying to scrape some bucks, and learn while doing stuff I like to do.

Oh, and I'm not going to make cans until I have the class III mfg license. It'll be easier and more cost effective that way.

Bogie · « **Reply #7 on:** June 26, 2011, 09:13:34 PM »

Dogmush, there's several schools of thought...

You need decent tolerances to ensure that you actually get recoil reduction (some of the stuff I've seen out there is just laughable - a bore hole you could throw a .308 through, lengthwise, and they're selling it as a .223 brake... And I've seen the things with woefully undersized side ports.

If you are looking to stop climb, you'll need ports on top and sides. If you are worried about blowing up dust, you don't want ports on the bottom. If you're worried about overall accuracy, you don't want an assymetrical setup (the "we blow it out everywhere but the bottom" tactical folks). I'm doing a few different versions, among them your basic spiral (probably the most intrinsically accurate), a large side port model, and one with no bottom ports, but with top ports to stop muzzle climb (gonna be flogging on that one at Knob Creek...).

dogmush · « **Reply #8 on:** June 26, 2011, 09:20:45 PM »

Sounds good.

Remember though, it has to look cool.

I run a brake on one of my AR's, and A2 flash suppressors on the rest. (Except for my accuracy AR, no muzzle device for it.) I'm considering swapping out one (or more) of my A2 birdcages for a brake with external threads to mount a can. Something like this. But I'm not in any real hurry, and I have spare carbines, so If you make something that looks cool and works, I'll give it a shot.

Fly320s · « **Reply #9 on:** June 27, 2011, 10:04:47 AM »

Quote from: Bogie on June 26, 2011, 04:03:52 AM

I've spent most of the past eight months damn near living in a fairly high precision machine shop. And now I'm embarking on a project of my own, after a wee little bit of research...

So, who needs a muzzle brake? Going to be producing several designs, ranging from a spiral to one that will look a lot like a regular AR-15 flash hider. Along with some that are really seeming to help the "stay on target" bit - they're loud, but they're real easy to shoot.

These days I am more interested in a flash hider than a muzzle brake. Brakes are loud and obnoxious to nearby shooters, but they are effective. I have a Surefire brake on one of my rifles that is very effective, but it is so loud that I get bothered by it. It especially sucks when shooting around barricades and close to the ground.

AJ Dual · « **Reply #10 on:** June 27, 2011, 10:18:13 AM »

I'm still kind of tickled anyone shooting .223/5.56 needs a brake.

I guess I understand the idea of follow up shots and losing less sight picture etc. competitions where fractions of seconds add up and do matter etc

It's just the idea of a rifle I can fire with the butt against my crotch without pain needing a "brake" will always be sort of funny.

.308 on up is where brakes are needed, but I also understand following the money.

Do you have any methodology to measure effectiveness of different designs? I see lots of pictures with sight lines off the barrel showing rise etc. However it's always subjective. The shooter can "expect" less rise/recoil with the brake and make it a self-fulfilling prophecy.

I'm sure there's funds and time issues, but I'm thinking something like a .223 test barrel with an accelerometer fixed to the end to show how much actuall whip, recoil, and rise there is with and without a brake, and between various designs.

Boomhauer · « **Reply #11 on:** June 27, 2011, 02:10:16 PM »

Quote

I'm still kind of tickled anyone shooting .223/5.56 needs a brake.

It's all about the muzzle rise, not the recoil. Another purpose of a muzzle brake with suppressor mounting is that it acts as a sacrificial blast baffle to save wear and tear on the can. A lot easier and cheaper to replace a $125 muzzle device rather than replace the multi hundred dollar (plus $200 tax stamp) suppressor.

Quote

These days I am more interested in a flash hider than a muzzle brake. Brakes are loud and obnoxious to nearby shooters, but they are effective. I have a Surefire brake on one of my rifles that is very effective, but it is so loud that I get bothered by it. It especially sucks when shooting around barricades and close to the ground.

Take a gander at the BattleComp muzzle brake. It's designed to be fairly effective yet not obnoxiously loud and still work fairly well as a flash suppressor.

Fly320s · « **Reply #12 on:** June 28, 2011, 04:56:48 AM »

Quote from: Avenger29 on June 27, 2011, 02:10:16 PM

Take a gander at the BattleComp muzzle brake. It's designed to be fairly effective yet not obnoxiously loud and still work fairly well as a flash suppressor.

I have. My buddy has/had one. All brakes are loud, it is the nature of the beast. They work well, but the muzzle blast and sound is too much for my tastes. I'll stick with my Vortex flash hider for now.

AJ Dual · « **Reply #13 on:** June 28, 2011, 10:30:08 AM »

Love my Vortex too.

I've never noticed the "ping" some complain of. Although it could be lost in the buffer tube's "sproing".

Harold Tuttle · « **Reply #14 on:** June 28, 2011, 01:57:15 PM »

can you make loudeners and fire ball enhancers like the Flaming Pig?

Fly320s · « **Reply #15 on:** June 28, 2011, 02:05:10 PM »

Quote from: AJ Dual on June 28, 2011, 10:30:08 AM

Love my Vortex too.

I've never noticed the "ping" some complain of. Although it could be lost in the buffer tube's "sproing".

Take a video of you shooting. You'll hear it then.

Especially if you mount a Go Pro on the fore rail.

bedlamite · « **Reply #16 on:** June 28, 2011, 03:51:46 PM »

I'm not really interested in anything 1/2x28, but a 5/8x24 linear compensator for use on a 6.8 would get my wallet open.

Bogie · « **Reply #17 on:** June 28, 2011, 07:31:44 PM »

I may try some of those eventually. Right now, I've got my first effort in steel up at...

http://stickertramp.com/?p=75

First designs are going to be set up so I won't have to clock 'em to the barrel. Next one is going to be a spiral...

Bogie · « **Reply #18 on:** June 30, 2011, 02:57:54 AM »

Okay - added two more to the mix... Pix at the above link. The one in the middle, with the two ports and the four holes on top will have to be clocked to the barrel via a peel washer, shims, what have you. There's also enough thread that a competent gunsmith should be able to take a thou or so off the back to clock it without the washers. Just a quickie photo, right after I pulled the last one from the kroil that I dunk the finished parts in...

Bogie · « **Reply #19 on:** June 30, 2011, 05:28:09 PM »

Any ideas on what I should price the darn things at? I'm seeing everywhere from $50-160 for different items - I'm thinking $50 - $75, depending...

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Author Topic: So, any of you guys into AR-15s, or other rifles with a 1/2-28 threaded muzzle? (Read 5727 times)