Author Topic: Working on roofs (Read 7983 times)

Tallpine · « **Reply #25 on:** March 18, 2012, 06:02:39 PM »

Quote from: French G. on March 18, 2012, 02:27:54 PM

Well if I deal with metal roof again I has a plan. I bought a bunch of milled aluminum block clamps that locked over the standing seam and then had tapped holes to screw stuff to, in this case snow guards. A couple of strategically installed permanent ladders would make it easy to get to a chimney and if you're already at the ridge easier to install/move jacks or other anchors.

You could just screw some pieces of extruded aluminum across 2 or 3 ribs to make a permanent ladder all the way to the peak :)

lupinus · « **Reply #26 on:** March 18, 2012, 06:08:34 PM »

I solve the falling off roof problem by not getting on the roof.

Well, least not since I had to shovel my roof living in PA but that one was pretty flat.

French G. · « **Reply #27 on:** March 18, 2012, 09:05:28 PM »

Quote from: Tallpine on March 18, 2012, 06:02:39 PM

You could just screw some pieces of extruded aluminum across 2 or 3 ribs to make a permanent ladder all the way to the peak :)

Roof with no penetrating screws, try to keep it that way. Screwed on one edge that is overlapped by interlocking standing seam. Hope I never work on another metal roof.

geronimotwo · « **Reply #28 on:** March 18, 2012, 09:35:55 PM »

Quote from: Nick1911 on March 17, 2012, 05:08:27 PM

Particularly steep roofs. Mine is either 10 in 12 or 12 in 12.

So APS, how is this done safely? I have a number of projects that require I go up on the roof. Techniques? Gear?

Presumably roof jacks - but that doesn't help when I can't actually get on the roof to install said jacks.

what are you doing to your roof?

K Frame · « **Reply #29 on:** March 18, 2012, 10:26:48 PM »

I grew up in a very large house (5,000 square feet or more, full three story farm Victorian) with a standing-seam metal roof.

In the late 1980s I washed and painted the entire thing. Scary isn't the word for it, but fantastic views.

I used a safety harness that I passed through the roof access port and tied off in the attic.

Metal roofs DO require regular maintenance, depending on the type.

If it's an older nailed panel roof, the nails have to be reset occasionally and re tarred, and the valleys and peak flashing also have to be attended to, and the entire thing needs to be painted every 10 or so years.

Nick1911 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 19, 2012, 12:00:43 AM »

Quote from: geronimotwo on March 18, 2012, 09:35:55 PM

what are you doing to your roof?

Installing roof vents. The attic is very poorly vented - the summer time heat buildup is insane. I did soffit vents last year, now to do roof vents and get a good thermosiphon going. I also have a leak around my chimney that is starting to stain the sheetrock in a bedroom. The flashing likely needs attending to.

BobR · « **Reply #31 on:** March 19, 2012, 08:20:22 AM »

Just don't forget to tell the wife why the rope is tied to the bumper of the car. If you are on the far side there is a slight possibility you could be pulled over the peak and end up on the driveway. Robert wasn't the sharpest tack in the box but he sure tried to everything himself. He also found out one day why you make sure you aren't touching the metal on the gurney when someone else is on the gurney getting shocked.

bob

280plus · « **Reply #32 on:** March 19, 2012, 08:51:14 AM »

Quote from: Nick1911 on March 19, 2012, 12:00:43 AM

Installing roof vents. The attic is very poorly vented - the summer time heat buildup is insane. I did soffit vents last year, now to do roof vents and get a good thermosiphon going. I also have a leak around my chimney that is starting to stain the sheetrock in a bedroom. The flashing likely needs attending to.

Attiic exhaust fan in one of the peaks? I rarely work on pitched roofs so I have no pertinent advice. All I recall is sitting on a high pitched roof with one leg bent at the knee and tucked underneath (other one straight) as the preferred method of not sliding. get on and off you ladder on your strong side. Righties get on and off on the right (facing the ladder) etc. Oh, and younger skinny guys that haven't bulked up yet will be able to walk a steep roof with little problems. As soon asyou start to gain weight in the chest/shoulder area your center of balance changes which makes you top heavy and it becomes much more difficult to walk the pitch.

wmenorr67 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 19, 2012, 09:15:46 AM »

My garage roof is steeper than my house. But have no problem walking around on either one. Other than age and knees keeping bothering me to crawl up and down a ladder.

K Frame · « **Reply #34 on:** March 19, 2012, 09:36:28 AM »

"I did soffit vents last year"

Should have done the ridge vent first.

"Attiic exhaust fan in one of the peaks?"

Generally fairly limited in their usefulness.

Nick1911 · « **Reply #35 on:** March 19, 2012, 12:05:35 PM »

Quote from: 280plus on March 19, 2012, 08:51:14 AM

Attiic exhaust fan in one of the peaks?

Nope, just passive box vents or a ridge vent.

Quote from: Mike Irwin on March 19, 2012, 09:36:28 AM

Should have done the ridge vent first.

Why is that?

I've started calling around to get quotes. Think I'm just going to hire it out.

geronimotwo · « **Reply #36 on:** March 19, 2012, 12:54:51 PM »

ridge vents aren't bad if your ladder goes to the peak, and you can sit on the vents while you are working.

K Frame · « **Reply #37 on:** March 19, 2012, 01:09:53 PM »

The ridge vent is the outlet. Even if you don't have soffit vents in place, but do have a ridge vent, you will get some heat release.

But, if you have soffit vents but no ridge vent, you don't get squat for heat release. Nothing. All the heat is clustered at the peak. It's not going to drop back down to the soffit vents to get out.

cassandra and sara's daddy · « **Reply #38 on:** March 19, 2012, 02:16:17 PM »

find old foam couch cushion. rip off cover use to sit on roof. keeps butt from sliding saves jeans from holes

CNYCacher · « **Reply #39 on:** March 19, 2012, 02:33:02 PM »

Ridge vents are pretty darn easy. You just need to peel back the ridge cap shingles, trim a couple inches off of the top edge of the decking on both sides, and nail down the vent. I kinda like the kind that is almost like a roll of open-cell sponge, and you just lay it out and nail cap shingles right through it.

cassandra and sara's daddy · « **Reply #40 on:** March 19, 2012, 02:37:08 PM »

Quote from: CNYCacher on March 19, 2012, 02:33:02 PM

Ridge vents are pretty darn easy. You just need to peel back the ridge cap shingles, trim a couple inches off of the top edge of the decking on both sides, and nail down the vent. I kinda like the kind that is almost like a roll of open-cell sponge, and you just lay it out and nail cap shingles right through it.

yup we just snap a chalk line full length set blade depth on circular saw and follow line full length 3-4 inches down from ridge. heck i can do it using the base plate of saw as guide. cuts shingles and deck in one pass. it takes as much time getting stuff onto roof as it does to do job if you use air gun. need longer nails to go through cap and vent material but they usually include a coil in box with vent

Nick1911 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 19, 2012, 02:58:27 PM »

Quote from: Mike Irwin on March 19, 2012, 01:09:53 PM

The ridge vent is the outlet. Even if you don't have soffit vents in place, but do have a ridge vent, you will get some heat release.

But, if you have soffit vents but no ridge vent, you don't get squat for heat release. Nothing. All the heat is clustered at the peak. It's not going to drop back down to the soffit vents to get out.

Good, then this will be money well spent.

It's mid march. I'm having to turn on the A/C if I want my bedroom under 80*.

Ridgevent + more insulation.

K Frame · « **Reply #42 on:** March 19, 2012, 06:26:38 PM »

I've got a ridge vent, and a couple of years ago I had work done on the house and had the soffit vents enlarged to pass more air.

It made a noticeable difference in the upstairs, but it still wasn't enough. I could lay in bed in the evenings and feel the heat radiating off the ceiling.

Until November 2010, when I spent about $1,100 to get the insulation upgraded from about 5 inches of cellulose to 25 inches of cellulose.

The difference has been absolutely incredible.

Whereas there used to be as much as a 6 to 8 degree differential between the first and second floors, it's now rarely more than 1.5 to 2 degrees.

Last summer was absolutely brutal heat wise in Virginia, and my upstairs was actually comfortable. The ceiling didn't feel like a huge radiant panel. Had I not done the insulation, I wouldn't have been able to sleep in my upstairs most of the summer.

I don't know where you are, but I recommend a minimum of R-49 if you can swing it.

But, no matter what, make absolutely certain that you do not block your new soffit vents with insulation! Use baffles if you're going with blown in cellulose.

roo_ster · « **Reply #43 on:** March 19, 2012, 07:10:38 PM »

We're gonna do the "blown insulation up to our hips" for the next attic work. Already did the radiant barrier & attic fan, which rocked last summer. Used 1/4 less electricity and it was more comfy in the house. May not have time before it gets hot, but it is on the menu.

K Frame · « **Reply #44 on:** March 19, 2012, 07:40:20 PM »

Word to the wise...

If you have anything you want to do to the ceilings in the house, such as put in new exhaust fans in the bathrooms, put in ceiling fans, etc., do it BEFORE you dump an additional 20 or more inches of insulation into the attic.

I replaced one fan in the master bath, but didn't replace the one in the second bath. Big mistake on my part.

And, depending on where you live, you'll want to bury any bath fan exhaust hoses in the insulation to cut down on condensation.

News:

Author Topic: Working on roofs (Read 7983 times)