Any suggestions for a starter bow?

[T.O.M.]

I've had an interest in archery on and off since I was a kid.  Used to have one of those cheap fiberglass bows I would shoot around the backyard at anything/everything.  Interest is still there, I've got a bit of money available, and I figure that a bow and the skills to use it to put meat on the table isn't a bad thing in case it's ever needed.  I'm thinking of targets primarily, but don't want to rule out hunting either.

Anyone got any suggestions for a starter bow and necessary accessories?  My instincts say long bow or recurve, but that may be just because I looked at Cabela's and Bass Pro and saw costs...

[RoadKingLarry]

My preference runs to traditional and primitive bows. I've even made a few hunting weight primitive bows that were fun to make and darn fun to shoot.
The #1 thing to keep in mind whether you go with traditional equipment or a (ick) compound style do not get too heavy a draw weight to start with. A 40-45-50# draw weight bow will put a sharp broadhead tipped arrow clean through the vitals of any animal in the lower 48. I would look to the lowest weight legal for hunting in your state and likely start there but an even lower weight target bow would not be out of line for a total beginner.
If you can find a shop that specializes in traditional archery equipment in your area that would be a bonus. you could also look for any local trad bowhunter groups.
For the go to site on the interwebz for traditional archery and bow hunting go to http://tradgang.com/.

For commercial tackle my drool reflex leans toward Bear and Martin for off the shelf bows.
http://www.martinarchery.com/2012/tradbows.php
http://www.beararcheryproducts.com/bows/traditional

[charby]

I got back into bowhunting 4 years ago, what I did was I kept checking craigslist and bought a used compound bow from a common but quailty manufacturer. I ended up with a 2002 PSE Beast with arrows, broadheads, a hard case and bunch of other stuff for $100. I'm getting ready to get the bow restrung sometime this spring because it still has the original string on it from 2002.

Quality brands: Bear, Hoyt, PSE, Bowtech, and Matthews

[RoadKingLarry]

Charby, I've got a an old Bear Black Mag that I bought in '85 still has the original string on it, I wouldn't have any issue shooting it.

[charby]

Charby, I've got a an old Bear Black Mag that I bought in '85 still has the original string on it, I wouldn't have any issue shooting it.

I'm in the school of thought that when I have a 175" whiteail coming my way and as soon as I draw back the string is going to break. I'd rather know I have a new string then worry about my old one breaking. I'm going to be deer hunting out of state (KY) with it this winter and I want to make sure that it is solid.

[brimic]

I don't know what is on the market for traditional bows anymore, all of my trad bows are over 20 years old.

For compound bows there are two I highly recommend:

The Genesis bow: http://genesis-outlet.com/genesisbow.htm
These are very popular beginner's bows, very often used at cubscout camps, and school/municipality archery programs.
Pros: very easy to shoot, very easy to learn on, suitable for all ages, variable draw length (one size fits all). These are very well made and come in many colors along with left and right handed variations. Not too expensive. <$200 for entire setup.

Cons: zero let-off (not really a big deal), limited draw weight (20lbs max).

[brimic]

The other I recommend is a big step up in versatility and price, the Mission Menace and Mission Craze:
http://missionarchery.com/product/menace/
http://missionarchery.com/product/craze/

These are for a more serious archer who is still getting their feet wet.
They are the most versatile bows on the market with draw weights adjustable from 15-50(Menace) and 15-70(Craze) with draw lengths adjustable from 17-30" (FWIW, my 9 year old son uses about a 20" draw length, I'm 6'4" with long arms and use a 29 1/2" draw length on my bow).

Pros: see above- good for 9-10 year old through an adult. Made by Matthews- VERY high quality with most of the normal Matthews features.
Either bow can be used for hunting at the right minimum draw weights.
70% let off. (you are only holding 30% of the draw weight at full draw.)

Cons: a bigger investment. After adding sights, release, arrows, the Menace will be slightly under $400, he Craze about $40 more.

FWIW, my 9 yo son shoots the Menace bow and does very well with it. He's had quite a bit of exposure and training with archery before he got one however.

[brimic]

Quality brands: Bear, Hoyt, PSE, Bowtech, and Matthews

Plus Martin.

I've owned or own Bear, Hoyt, Martin, and Matthews bows, can't say a bad thing about any one of them, though I have a bias towards Matthews.

[gunsmith]

I've always wanted to learn archery - please do a follow up post to let us know what you bought etc

[Monkeyleg]

If you're just getting back into archery, simple is better.

[grislyatoms]

My preference runs to traditional and primitive bows. I've even made a few hunting weight primitive bows that were fun to make and darn fun to shoot.
The #1 thing to keep in mind whether you go with traditional equipment or a (ick) compound style do not get too heavy a draw weight to start with. A 40-45-50# draw weight bow will put a sharp broadhead tipped arrow clean through the vitals of any animal in the lower 48. I would look to the lowest weight legal for hunting in your state and likely start there but an even lower weight target bow would not be out of line for a total beginner.
If you can find a shop that specializes in traditional archery equipment in your area that would be a bonus. you could also look for any local trad bowhunter groups.
For the go to site on the interwebz for traditional archery and bow hunting go to http://tradgang.com/.

For commercial tackle my drool reflex leans toward Bear and Martin for off the shelf bows.
http://www.martinarchery.com/2012/tradbows.php
http://www.beararcheryproducts.com/bows/traditional

Kiddo and I have been going to the indoor archery range for over a year now, and still haven't purchased anything, other than range time. Whatever bow you get (I'm leaning towards a recurve for me, compound for kiddo) do not skimp on arrows! Good fletching and a balanced shaft makes quite a difference over range arrows.

[Jim147]

Suggestions? Find a really good bow shop. If they have a short range in the shop so you can shoot anything on the rack, it sure helps. And they can tune it to you right on the spot.

I picked up my Darton in 1985. It still has the original string (kept dry and waxed) and cables. I only use it on years that my shoulder lets me get enough practice to feel good about carrying it. It's hit more rabbits then deer.

jim

[brimic]

I picked up my Darton in 1985. It still has the original string (kept dry and waxed) and cables.

Which model?
I still have my Darton MX-20 that I got for my birthday around the same time, it was my first compound bow. I don't shoot it anymore as I long outgrew it, but I had it set up for my wife when we used to shoot 3-D leagues together.

[MrsSmith]

Ben and I have talked about getting bows. My only experience with archery wasn't really a good one (went with a group of friends and shared a bow with a guy a head taller and a hundred pounds heavier than me, thus a bit stronger than me) and since then I've never considered a bow an option. But having a silent weapon does appeal to me and if I could find one that's suitable for my size and strength, it could be fun.

What Grisly said about good arrows makes sense. In my days of playing darts, switching from my own properly weighted and balanced darts to house darts always had a negative impact on my ability to hit what I was aiming at. I'd guess any projectile would have the same issues.

Keep us posted and if anyone else has good advice to throw out for us beginners, please do so.

[brimic]

Yes FOC (forward of center) balance is pretty important.  http://archeryreport.com/2010/09/arrow-foc-basics-calculate/

Correct spine is also very important- especially on stick bows. With modern compound bows with centered or drop away rests, you can get away with extra spine, but with a stick bow, the arrow has to have the correct spine to bend around the riser when released. The arrow will fishtail for a few feet after leaving the bow then straighten in flight. Too much or too little spine will cause the arrow to deflect too much and/or take too much fight time to stabilize and waste energy.
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_3.htm