Eugene Kane is a columnist for the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel. His job is to find racism in everything, and write a column every single day about racism. He's good at his job, or at least he's able to find racism in places nobody else would consider looking.
Today he found racism in a sandwich. (Italicized comments are mine).
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I'm not entirely sure why the idea of a double-breasted chicken sandwich wrapped around a hunk of cheese and bacon - with no bread - strikes me as such a disturbing thing.
Perhaps it represents yet another exploitation of low-income fast-food customers by a major corporation. Maybe I'm just afraid of being tempted off my diet. Well, we're off to a fast start. I didn't know that people were being exploited by food. Frankly, I didn't even think it was possible. Thanks, Eugene.
In any event, fast-food giant KFC - formerly known as Kentucky Fried Chicken - began promoting a new product this month with a series of TV commercials that have permeated the tube in recent weeks.
The TV ads for the greasy meat and cheese packed Double Down sandwich created a buzz for the sandwich's debut last week. Hmmm. "Greasy." I guess this isn't going to be fair and balanced, is it?
Sharon Adams, executive director of Walnut Way Conservation Group, 2240 N. 17th St., doesn't quite understand all the fuss.
"I have no answer," said Adams, when asked to describe the popularity of the Double Down and other massive fast-food sandwiches.
Her efforts are more directed toward finding healthier alternatives for residents of the central city and other low-income neighborhoods. Two years ago, Adams was involved in efforts to protest the opening of a fast-food chicken chain on North Ave. Her group made the argument that there were already too many similar establishments in the area.
"There were just too many fast-food options and not a lot of anything else," she said.
Excuse me, Mssssss. Adams. Did it ever occur to you that there were a lot of chicken places on North Avenue because people in the area liked chicken? What's more, did you stop to consider that they might want whatever new recipes that restaurant might have provided, not to mention the jobs it would have provided?
In the end, that battle was won, and Adams has continued to be involved in educating residents about their nutritional options, encouraging them to establish community gardens and sponsor cooking clubs to learn how to make their own healthy meals.
Swell. Not only does Mssss. Adams prevent a legitimate business from opening, but she's going to now tell people how to eat. Plus she's going to try to get people in gangland to establish "community gardens" and cooking clubs. That will go over real well with the Black Gangster Disciples at their next monthly meeting. You're attending, aren't you, Msssss. Adams?
"I'm convinced people want to eat healthy," she said. "There's a power in being able to say what goes into your body."
There's a power, alright, but you seem to be the one wielding it.
I picked up an infamous Double Down sandwich at the KFC franchise on N. King Drive for $4.99 and can report, at least from appearances sake, it lived up to its billing. (I couldn't bring myself to taste it, even in the name of journalism.)
Two fried or broiled chicken fillets wrapped around two slices of Monterey jack cheese and two slices of bacon, with a special sauce. It's a sandwich KFC brags is so filling, "There's no room for bread."
According to various news reports, some people thought the idea of the sandwich was so decadent, they figured it had to be an April Fools' joke when first announced early this month. Turns out the joke was on the American consumer. Yeah, those stupid consumers. Advertise cow dung on a cracker and they'll buy it.
The nutritional rap sheet tells the real story: According to KFC, the Double Down is 540 calories with 32 grams of fat and 1,380 milligrams of sodium, although at least one consumer Web site reported the caloric intake to be twice as much.
Sending positive message
Young Kim, executive director of the Fondy Food Market on Fond du Lac Ave. just north of North Ave., believes one key to healthier eating habits is better media awareness to counter influences like the media blitz for the Double Down sandwich.
"This is a big business for them," said Kim, in reference to fast-food companies. "It's hard to compete with that kind of marketing." Did it ever occur to you, Kim, that KFC has that kind of marketing because they give people what they want, and you don't because you're trying to get people to eat seaweed?
Fondy Market is the only farmers market serving Milwaukee's central city. But there are also a number of grass-roots programs attempting to educate more residents about nutrition.
Kimberly Njorge is a community food specialist who works with the Fondy Market, Walnut Way and the nonprofit Alice's Gardens to promote the need for residents to learn to cook from scratch, using fresh ingredients and nonprocessed foods.
She holds cooking clubs twice a month with central city residents who have re-examined their cooking and shopping habits with an eye toward improving their health.
"Some people just had to be taught about nutrition and learn how to change their habits," said Njorge. "We get them out picking their own produce. They really get their hands in the dirt."
Ah, community activists. They're really good at telling people what to do. They're so good that we even have one as president.
Let's be clear: There's nothing wrong with KFC selling a Double Down chicken sandwich. In America, you have the right to eat yourself to death if you want. But one has to wonder how long it will take for society to start making the link between rising health care costs, childhood obesity and myriad other social ills coming from promoting an unhealthy diet to a gullible public.
Yes, Eugene, people have the right to eat what they want. Why do I get the feeling that you're angling for a way to remove that right? I guess we should all thank you for protecting inner city residents from their own appetites. Or am I being a racist?
While I was at KFC, several customers ordered the Double Down; marketing-wise, it's clearly a hit. It's an awesomething to behold but, like so many other things in life, it isn't necessarily good for you.
Contact Eugene Kane at (414) 223-5521 or ekane@journalsentinel.com.
